Hot Time, Summer in the Mountains (May 1997) by Naowarat Cheeptham, with Joe Dobson Lush with natural greenery, teeming with wildlife and dotted with volcanic mountains and caldera lakes, Hokkaido is just one sprawling park. Summer in this prefecture is the time to stop thinking about city hassles and hit some of the finest trails in Japan. Although nine mountain ranges spread themselves across Hokkaido, and several great hikes are within and around Sapporo itself, information other than in Japanese is as scarce as the trails are numerous. The treks in English below are a step in the right direction. A leisurely, accessible climb is Mt. Moiwa. The trial entrance from Asahiyama Kinen Park is one of several and leads to a host of other great trails and paths to the west. From the park to the mountaintop is a casual two-hour hike. To get to the park, take the regular city bus from Maruyama Station. Sapporo residents know Mt. Teine for its skiing and golf courses. But the peak, west of Sapporo, also offers a convenient escape for hiking enthusiasts. Of the three trails, the Kotoni-Hassamugawasoi ascent up the back of the mountain is the best in terms of scenery. Take the subway to Kotoni Station and then the Heiwanotakiyuki Bus to the last stop. Beside Daiheiwa Temple is the entrance to the mountain, from which it is a leisurely four hours to the top. In late spring and early summer this is a popular spot for sansai (wild vegetable) gathering. Highly recommended by locals and foreigners is Mt. Kamuishiri, whose name means "mountain of the gods" in the Ainu language. It rises close to the town of Tobetsu, about an hour and a half from Sapporo. Reach Tobetsu JR Station by train, then catch the bus in front of the station (Sundays only). Three trails - A, B and C - start near the parking lot and campground at the foot of the mountain. The peak affords an unexpectedly heavenly view, given the very earthly altitude of only 850 meters. Allow three and a half hours to make it to the top. Higher and slightly farther from Sapporo is the lovely Mt. Yotei, the highest inactive volcano in Hokkaido. Before becoming Mt. Yotei, it was known as Mt. Shiribeshi, and it goes by several additional names: Ezofuji, Makkari-nupuri (in Ainu), and Majineshiri. Of the four trails, the Makkari and Kutchan courses are a bit easier to get to than the others. To get to Yoteizan Shizen Park at Makkari, drive about three hours from Sapporo, or take the Hakodateyuki train and get off at Kutchan Station, then take the Rusutsu Kogen Yuki Donan Bus to Yoteizan Shizen Park. It is recommended that one camp there the night before hiking or stay at the mountaintop hut. The challenging hike up takes about five hours, after which a magnificent, magical view spreads in all directions. Even farther afield one finds Mt. Rishiri, on Rishiri Island close to Wakkanai on Hokkaido's northwest coast. Although many mountains are named for resembling Mt. Fuji, Japan's spiritual heart, "Rishiri Fuji" has the distinction of thrusting from the sea: the mountain itself is the whole island. (In Ainu, Rishiri actually means "tall island.") From Sapporo to Wakkanai, it takes about six to seven hours by car. The ferry from Otaru to Wakkanai no longer runs. From Wakkanai, park at the ferry terminal and take the ferry to the island. There are three trails, the Oshidomari, Kutsugata, and Oniwaki courses, the last of which has been closed for safety reasons. There is a campground about a third of the way up from the Oshidomari ferry terminal. It takes about four to five hours to the top. On a clear day, it feels like the top of the earth. Mt. Asahi, at 2290 meters and in Taisetsuzan National Park, is worth the trip to central Hokkaido. Access is by train or car to an area southeast of the town of Asahikawa. Drivers should go to Asahidake hot spring. From there, a 20-minute ride on Taisetsuzan-Asahidake Ropeway takes the less adventurous halfway to the top, avoiding the walk at the foot of the mountain. From Sugatami Station it's a two-hour trek to the top and from there along the loop trail about six hours back to Sugatami Station. Or instead, walk down to Asahidake hot spring, which takes about one hour and 40 minutes. At the top are several uniquely beautiful lakes. A trip of at least two days is recommended, to allow for camping and relaxing after a day-long hike. Spend the night before or after the climb at the Asahidake hot spring campground. If physical, mental and spiritual refreshment are not inducement enough to climb a mountain, there's always another reason: because it's there. Unwinding Japanese Style (Nov. 1996) by Michelle Cook Visitors often have trouble understanding some of Japan's more popular recreational activities. The sounds of clinking pachinko balls and off-key karaoke are far from relaxing. However, the centuries-old tradition of onsen (hot spring) bathing is one national pastime that's easy to appreciate. Over 100 million people visit Japan's 2,431 hot-spring resorts annually, according to the Japan Spa Association. Japan owes its rich abundance of onsen - over 24,000 mineral springs in all - to its location in the Pacific "ring of fire" volcanic zone. It's not certain when the Japanese first began enjoying this precious natural resource. The Ainu used springs for healing and, long before today's package tours, feudal-era travellers packed supplies on their backs and journeyed to hot springs to relax. Over the centuries, onsen bathing has become an integral part of Japan's seasonal cycle of activities, although bathers these days are more likely to indulge in a post-ski rather than a post-harvest soak. The curative powers of onsen are well known, but their image as purely medicinal places for the infirm and elderly is quickly vanishing. "Onsen trips are increasingly attractive to young people, especially women," says Teruo Terada of the Japan Spa Association. "They like to combine onsen visits with sports activities, such as tennis or skiing, and gourmet meals." Terada adds that, when choosing an onsen, bathers consider the beauty of its natural setting to be most important. Rotenburo (outdoor hot pools) are popular and many onsen owners are adding these to their facilities. There are onsen to suit all tastes. They range from the humble - natural pools bubbling up along river beds or onto beaches - to the palatial - the luxurious, man-made resorts of Noboribetsu and Jozankei - to the eccentric. In the eastern Hokkado fishing port of Rausu, an innkeeper pumps sulfurous waters up into the hull of an old boat. With over 250 onsen resorts, Hokkaido has more hot springs than any other prefecture. According to a Japan Spa Association survey, Noboribetsu currently ranks third as the onsen most bathers want to visit and third as the best onsen visited in the last year. Five other recommended Hokkaido hot spots follow. Traditional A quiet, wooden walkway at Marukoma hot spring leads bathers through a cool, green forest down into a steaming, black stone rotenburo bordering Lake Shikotsu. The roots of an ancient tree cradle the pool while its branches shelter bathers. Stone lanterns and bamboo screens add touches of old Japan. There are also modern conveniences: a bright, airy changing room, indoor and outdoor onsen with lake views, and a sauna. Hot Spring Hotel Marukoma, Lake Shikotsu, (0123) 25-2341, separate bathing, \1,000, open to non-guests daily 10 a.m. - 3 p.m. Trendy Although located in one of Hokkaido's most popular ski areas, from the front, Niseko's Yukichichibu hot spring looks a little drab. Inside, the change rooms and indoor pools aren't much better but don't let this deter you. Outside lies a newly renovated rotenburo wonderland of wood, rock and water. The six women's and five men's pools overlook evergreen-covered hills and the source of all the fun: a pond of burping yellow sulfur. Among the variety of baths is a neyu, a shallow, ceder-lined pool designed for stargazing. Yukichichibu, Niseko, (0136) 58-2328, separate bathing, \400, daily 9:30 a.m. - 8:00 p.m., adjacent to Chisenupuri ski area. Cosmopolitan The Jasmac Plaza Hotel hot spring offers a soothing respite from the frenetic pace of Susukino just outside. The art deco-style onsen, fed by a bona-fide spring, features a cedar-lined rotenburo surrounded by high, sleek, black stone walls. Inside, are salt saunas, dry saunas, and pools of varying temperatures. An attentive staff provides guests with robes, towels, toothbrushes and hair dryers. The facility also has "floating" relax beds - capsule beds equipped with stereo and television for quick after-bath naps. Jasmac Plaza Hotel, South 7 West 3, 2F, (011) 551-3333, separate bathing, \2,500 (relax bed, 1/2 hr. \500), daily 11:00 a.m. - 1:00 a.m., Sundays & holidays 10:00 a.m. - midnight. All-Natural Lodge Nutapu Kaushipe, a rustic log cabin located below the Mt. Asahi-Dake ropeway station in Daisetsuzan National Park, is no place for shy bathers. Visitors must sprint down the front porch to reach the rotenburo, a beautiful, two-tiered rock pool overlooking a small waterfall. There are also indoor baths, changing rooms and a ramen restaurant at this laid-back inn. Lodge Nutapu Kaushipe, Higashikawa, (0166) 97-2150, separate & mixed bathing, \500, daily 12:00p.m. - 5:00 p.m. The Ultimate Kamuiwakka, in remote Shiretoko, is a spectacular rotenburo formed by natural waterfalls. The falls are fed by spring water that cascades down a rocky valley and fills rock pools before eventually plunging into the Sea of Okhotsk below. Kamuiwakka is 45 minutes from the nearest town, on a steep, rough road with breathtaking views of Shiretoko's northern coastline. Untouched by commercialism, its only facilities are a rudimentary outhouse and bear-proof garbage bin. To reach the pools, bathers hike up a rocky stream bed. Most stop at a large pool, with walls of phosphorescent green rock, halfway up the falls. Getting to the higher, hotter, more secluded pools takes nerve and a sturdy pair of Tevas, as the trail becomes almost nonexistent here forcing bathers to climb a steep hillside steaming with sulfur. Mixed bathing, free, accessible in summer only, accommodation available in Utoro or Iwaobetsu. Yosakoi Soran Matsuri (May 1996) by Sonya Knecht and Takako Mitsuya The word "yosakoi" comes from a dialect in Kochi and means "Would you like to come over to my place tonight." while the word Soran is what fishermen shout when they haul in their nets. Together these two words come together to form the name of one of Sapporo's most lively and energetic summer events, the Yosakoi Soran Matsuri. The 5th Annual Yosakoi Soran Matsuri will be held from June 7 to 9 in Sapporo. A hundred groups consisting of more than 10,000 participants from Hokkaido, Osaka, Tokyo, Fukuoka and Kochi will fill Odori 4-chome street and other main streets with music and fun. Each group designs its own costume and unique make-up and to rhythmical music performs their original style of dance combined with Soran-bushi - a traditional Hokkaido fisherman's song. Together with the dancing, a Japanese musical instrument called the naruko, a kind of castanet, is a required part of the performers ensemble. Participants from each group come from all walks of life to join the festivities. This festival was born when a college student in Sapporo visited Kochi and was intrigued with the exciting Yosakoi Matsuri on Shikoku Island a few years back. He wished to bring the same energy and excitement from Kochi to Sapporo so that Sapporoites could be proud of their city and to liven up Sapporo. His dream came true when many companies in Sapporo gave support to the festival by advertising on give-away fans and programs. This year the festival committee, made up of 130 college students, has collected 20 million yen from its sponsors. Compared with the world-famous Sapporo Snow Festival, which attracts two million visitors every year, the Yosakoi Soran Matsuri requires more participation and a longer-term commitment. People are not just spectators but also performers. Much imagination and creativity is required to develop dancing, make-up, and music that stands out from the crowd. Participants must use their brains and bodies. All of the music is based on Hokkaido's most famous folk song. While younger groups employ a more up-beat Western arrangement, older groups use a more traditional sound. Also, the dance reflects each group's style with moves ranging from those of the Bon Odori dance to Michael Jackson's moon walk. Taxi drivers and shopkeepers may not be very happy because people linger along the street without spending money and others may be annoyed by the loud music coming through the windows, but most enjoy the festivities. One employee who has been dancing with a group of her colleagues for five years says that her company is supportive of the activity. She and her co-workers practice dancing after work. "It's a wonderful way to get together and accomplish something with other young people." Clients, friends and families look forward to their performance. Although the companies spend a considerable amount of money, it gives them the opportunity to promote themselves as good corporate citizens. All the preparations and hard work climax when the dancers begin to show their stuff in Odori . Traffic is closed off and tens of thousands of eyes are focused on their performance. One dancer noted that this is the moment when she feels most excited. Although you can watch the performance on TV, the real excitement can't reach you unless you breathe the same air as the dancers on the street. If you feel like being a part of the fun, there is a group for "jump-in" dancers. You receive a quick dancing lesson plus a naruko and a fan. Doing Winter Right In Hokkaido - A History Written in the Snow - (Nov. 1995) by Takako Mitsuya and Mary Westring The 47th Sapporo Snow Festival will be held in 1996 from February 6th to the 12th. Every year hundreds of snow statues are made by the citizens of Sapporo, members of the Self-Defense Force, and people from more than twenty nations around the world. More than two million people come to Odori Park, the grounds of the Self Defense Force Base in Makomanai, and Susukino to see this world famous event. It is said that during one cold winter just after the second World War, a group of high school students made six snow sculptures to celebrate their final examinations. More than 5,000 war-weary citizens went to see them. At this time people were still struggling for the basic necessities of life, and the heavy snow and chilled air must have added to their burden. We can imagine that these fanciful and frivolous objects were a welcome diversion in their hard lives. Modern day snow sculptors can participate in two ways. Through the embassy of one's country, an application can be made to be a member of the national team. The national teams, selected in the International Snow Sculpture Contest, are treated as official guests of the city of Sapporo, fed and housed in a fine hotel and feted at parties and celebrations. In addition to the national teams, 150 teams, made up of families, school groups or work colleagues are selected through a lottery process. After selection, participants must submit a plan for the piece and attend a meeting to consult with professional sculptors. They then begin work at the end of January. Each team is provided with a two-meter cube of snow which they then must sculpt. If you and your team are interested, please contact Sapporo City Hall (217-2376). The Sapporo Snow Festival Committee - Shimin no Hiroba at City Hall. Even if you don't actually help create a statue, be sure to take a look at the winter wonderland musuem. You'll probably experience some of the delights that the first viewers did when they looked at the first snow statues so many years ago. Tips for Picking Out Your Gear (Nov. 1995) by Matt Gushie Itching to pick up some ski gear so you can get out on the slopes? Whether you pay tens of thousands of yen for the latest models or scavenge the gomi, carefully selecting the best equipment for your needs can help you get more enjoyment out of skiing. It's tempting to pick up the cheapest pair of skis you can find, but local ski instructor Tony Howard cautions that you should make sure your skis are the right length. Advanced skiers generally use skis 10 or 15 centimeters longer than their height; beginners should use skis 5 centimeters longer than their height. For example, a 180 cm tall skier would use skis either 185 cm long (beginner) or 195 cm long (advanced). Flexibility is also important for control. But how flexible is flexible? A simple test is to stand a ski upright and then, holding the tip with one hand, push on the middle section. Howard suggests going to a ski shop and comparing the flexibility of a pair of racing skies and a pair of beginner's skis. If you can't find the right skis second-hand, you may be able to buy new ones for less than you think. According to Kyotaka Katoh, teacher-in-charge of the ski team at Sapporo Dai-Ichi High School, recent advances in ski engineering mean that even very cheap skis are well designed, regardless of the maker. Really bad skis are practically non-existent. Good bindings are essential to safe skiing. If you're going to buy them second-hand, you should have the bindings checked by a shop. This may cost around \5000, but you can save a little by going to a ski tune-up shop rather than a retail sports shop. You should also note the DIN setting, a set of numbers on the adjustment screw at the front of the binding. This regulates the force needed to release the binding. Howard suggests a setting of 8 as a maximum for beginners. "Salespeople will try to sell you top of the range equipment that you don't really need," he adds. With poles, the main consideration is length. To check this, turn the pole upside down. With your upper arm at your side, grasp the pole about 3 cm below the basket; your forearms should extend straight out from your hips. If your gomi poles are too long, you can remove the grips and cut off the tops with a hacksaw. Choosing a pair of boots is important. Beginners should avoid racing boots, since they are very hard and will hurt their feet. Look for a pair that will flex when you lean forward. The fit should be snug, but with room to wiggle your toes (otherwise they will get very cold) and your heels should lift slightly when you flex forward. One item that you should definitely buy, says Howard, is a good pair of goggles. Used goggles tend to be scratched, thus fogging easily. Once you have your goggles, they should be either on your face or in a soft cloth bag at all times. I asked Katoh-sensei what advice he would give to new skiers. "Go out when the weather is good," he says. "Have a good time, and, before long, you'll be on the way to mastering skiing." What you should know about the Japanese Calender (May and Aug. 1995) by Hisae Shiwa and Tonya Chrapko There are cultural insights to be gained by studying the national holidays or cultural holidays of various countries. In addition to the "obvious" days related to historic events, there are other days that have less apparent significance related to a nation's culture and values. For example, here in Japan there is a special day for celebrating girls and another for celebrating boys. In contrast to Western culture, the roles of girls and boys are clearly segregated in Japan. Here is a brief outline of the important days in the Japanese calendar from April to July to help you understand more about Japan and the Japanese. Cultural holidays are identified as (CL) and National holidays as (NH). Beginning of April (CL)- Entrance to school or company season This is the time when the Japanese begin the year. For this reason, many people may get nervous, and by Golden Week, they may be exhausted due to tension or beacuse they are not yet accustomed to their work or new schedules. April 29 (NH) Midori-no-hi -Green day This is actually the birthday of Emperor Showa who died in April, 1989. After his death, it was decided that this day should be kept in honor of him and named Green Day. Green was chosen because Emperor Showa was interested in environmental preservation. May 3 (NH) Kenpo-kinenbi -Constitution Memorial Day The Meiji Constitution which was in effect prior to World War II, was revised and repealed. The new constitution was brought into effect on this day in 1947. Under it, wars of aggressions and armaments are prohibited. May 4 (NH) Kokumin-no-kyujitu -National Holiday This is just another holiday given to allow workers an additional day off between the other two holidays. May 5 (NH) Kodomo-no-hi -Children's Day This day is often referred to as "boy's festival". The parents raise a Koi-nobori, (a carp streamer) outside the house so that boys can grow up as energetic or powerful as the carps and also as brave and strong as Samurai. So if you happen to see the carp streamer up on the roof of the house, it means that the family has a young boy. End of April to the beginning of May (NH)- Golden Week Fortunately, we can have as many as ten days holiday during this period. Nowadays, many people tend to go overseas instead of traveling in Japan. Sometime in May (CL) Hanami - Cherry blossom viewing This is one of the most popular spring events not only for the young but also for businessmen, OL's (office ladies), and older people. This celebration was started long ago by poets, writer, painters etc. , who would sit under the blossoming trees, eating and drinking. Here in Sapporo, we see blossoms for a little while right after Golden Week. Second Sunday in May (CL) Haha-no-hi -Mother's Day We should show gratitude to all mothers on this day. Third Sunday in June (CL) Chichi-no-Hi -Father's Day We should show gratitude to all fathers on this day. July 13 to 16 (CL) Obon -Feast of the dead This is a Buddhist festival which honors the spirits of the dead who are believed to return to their families annually. In Hokkaido, this occurs a month earlier than in Honshu. During this period, people visit the ancestors tombs, known as Ohaka-Mairi where they pray, offer flowers and burn incense. Most companies allow employees a few days off (called Obon-Yasumi) to give people time to visit their ancestors tombs. One of the brighter customs during Obon is the Bon-Odori, a dance performed all over the country. Mid-June (Same time as Obon -CL) Season of Ochugen -Midsummer Gifts Traditionally in midsummer, gift giving was intended to honor the dead. However, in recent times the tradition has shifted. Gifts are now exchanged among the living, especially to one's social superiors or to anyone whom you may wish to show gratitude. In the next issue, there will be a similar outline of Holidays beginning with August. Stay tuned. Mid-July to Mid-August: Sapporo Beer Garden And Summer Festival / Sapporo Natsu-Matsuri We Sapporoites can have opportunities to drink beer and have fun after work outdoors in Odori Park during this period. It's so popular that it is sometimes hard to find a seat! Another weekly fesival in the middle of August is the Sapporo Summer Festival. There are concerts, live performances, karaoke, and a bazaar. Special Japanese performances include the dynamic Taiko (drum) concert and the Mikoshi(portable shrine) event or the Bon-odori dance, which you may participate in. This is one of the most exciting Summer events in Sapporo. September 15: Respect for the Aged Day / Keirou-no-hi A national holiday which not only shows respect and admiration for the elderly members of society but also encourages the young to consider their health and longevity. September 22: Autumnal Equinox Day / Shuubun-no-hi As you know, on this day the sun crosses the equator, making the length of night and day equal. A seven-day period straddling the equinox is called "O-higan", meaning the other land beyond the bank, during which Buddhist memorial services are performed for dead ancestors. October 10: Sports Day / Taiku-no-hi Established to commemorate the Tokyo Olympics, which were held October 10 to 24, 1964. It also encourages citizens to enjoy sports in many ways including special sports events. November 3: Culture Day / Bunka-no-hi Cultural activities held on this day are intended to recognize the post-war constitution of Japan and "the love of peace." November 23: Labor-Thanksgiving Day / Kinroukansha-no-hi Established to express gratitude to workers and to hope for their prosperity. F.Y.I In the last issue, we printed that Obon, the time of the year Japanese remember their deceased relatives, took place in August. While, this is true for Hokkaido, most of the rest of Japan honors their deceased relatives in mid-July.