OUT and ABOUT: Hitting the Trail in
Hokkaido (Aug., 2000)
by William Kennedy
"Summertime, and the livin' is easy ..." - George Gershwin
So you made it. Summer. Another six-month Hokkaido winter has come and
gone, followed by the six weeks of spring and the rainy season everyone
tells you doesn't happen up here. Ahead, about the time the next issue
of this magazines comes out, the leaves will start to rust and then it's
only a matter of time before the white stuff starts dumping down again.
Sigh.
But forget about that. Think about now. Summer. Time to get out and enjoy
the small window of opportunity we are allowed up here. But if your idea
of getting out doesn't go any further than sitting under the trees at
the beer gardens in Odori Park or shuffling out with the masses to Furano
to see the lavender, then there's a whole lot more Hokkaido you are missing.
Those of us who actually live here may not be aware of how lucky we are.
You can only hear phrases like "beautiful nature" and "much
green" so often before you get a little jaded. It takes a view from
outside to set things straight. Pick up any guidebook you want, and there
will be raves about Hokkaido. Even the good people at Lonely Planet put
aside their apparent reservations about Japan and wipe the smirks off
their faces long enough to give a straight assessment.
There's hiking, camping (not those parking lots with toilets in the suburbs,
either) or simply kicking back and enjoying views unlike anything else
in Japan, or the world, for that matter.
Xene has put together a sampling of what Hokkaido has to offer, a kind
of idiot's guide to the outdoors. We've tried to account for various tastes
and preferences, whether you are a backpacker or subway rider.
Whatever you're going to do, though, do it quickly. No one who lives in
Hokkaido has to be reminded how fleeting the summer is here. In the higher
reaches of Daisetsuzan Park, the chill in the air only grudgingly disappeared
in the last month or so. Meanwhile, in the sporting goods stores in downtown
Sapporo, the surf gear is about to make way for the snowboards. So get
out there.
LOCAL HEROES
You don't have to be a rugged trailblazer to enjoy Hokkaido's attractions.
There are many parks and trails close enough that even the most citified
types can enjoy a day out and be back downtown in time to get in a nomihodai.
Vankei Shimin no Mori
Taken directly, Shimin no Mori translates to the vaguely North Korean-sounding
"Citizen's Woodland", although "Public Forest" is
a little less intimidating. Vankei, on the western outskirts of Chuo-ku,
is known chiefly as Sapporo's nearest public ski facility. In summer,
the area is home to some five and a half kilometers of trails that wind
around Mt. Mitsubishi. Simply take the Tozai subway line to Maruyama Station
and transfer to the Vankei bus.
Makomanai Park
Located at the southern end of the Nanboku subway line, Makomanai is a
favorite with cyclists and runners.
Nopporo Forest Park
The tourists come out for the museum and the historical village, which
both have their charms. You should come for the 30 km of trails through
the forest.
FURTHER AFIELD
Hokkaido's real attractions are found further outside of Sapporo, in the
north-central area of the island, and on the east coast. Unfortunately,
getting around gets tougher the further you get from the city. JR Hokkaido
has been pretty ruthless in cutting back service in the countryside, despite
the fact that the company loses potloads of money every year, anyway.
Though down to the bare bones, the service is still yards better than
what most of us are used to at home. You need to either plan a schedule
as precise as that for a lunar landing or, better yet, somehow get your
hands on a car. You'll be glad you did.
Taisetsuzan National Park
Called "the Roof of Hokkaido" on what must have been a bad day
at the tourism office, Daisetsuzan is a huge park which includes Asahidake,
Hokkaido's tallest mountain and the stunning Sounkyo Gorge. Located near
Asahikawa, Taisetsuzan can be done from Sapporo in one day, but most people
suggest you take a couple.
ONSENS
- Come on in, the water's fine
Most foreigners in this country see onsens, particularly outdoor rotemburos,
as proof that Japan is indeed a superior, more advanced country. In winter
or summer, daytime or night, there are fewer things better. Hokkaido boasts
more than 100 free natural hot springs. Most are out east near Lake Kussharo
or on the Shiretoko Peninsula. Some are completely in the wild, others
have undergone a little bit of improvement. Similarly, some are segregated
(kind of) into male and female, while others are mixed. Here are some
of the best-regarded ones, but choosing a favorite onsen is a very personal
matter, so you might want to just try them all.
Seseki Onsen
Near the town of Rausu halfway up Shiretoko, Seseki is a natural pool
formed by heated water flowing out of a crack in the rocks a longside
the sea. It is so close, in fact, that it is submerged at high tide, making
timing important. On a clear day, you can see Kunashiri, one of the disputed
islands claimed by both Japan and Russia. Sit back, look out at the island
while sipping a beer chilled in the sea next to you and consider the vagaries
of global geopolitics. Or not.
Aidomari Onsen
This mixed wooden bath was originally built for local fishermen and seaweed
gatherers. Be careful not to upset the locals during the fishing season,
which is right around now, actually.
Kuma no Yu
This hot spring is on the Rausu River near the Shiretoko Pass on Route
334. Women are offered their choice of their own fenced-off bath or a
large mixed pool. The name translates roughly as the Bear's Bath, but
there is no mention of whether they get their own area.
Kamuiwakka Falls
This mixed hot spring is one of the most famous in Hokkaido. The entire
river, including the basin of the falls, is a hot spring.
Kussharo
Kussharo has the advantage of being closer to Sapporo and more accessible.
It also has the disadvantage of being closer to Sapporo, which means more
people and more rules. Those with the time are probably better off to
soldier further along until they reach Shiretoko.
Wakoto Onsen
At the foot of the Wakoto Peninsula on Lake Kussharo, this mixed hot spring
has a changing room and space for about 20 people at one time. It is famous
for its view of the lake, but it can get pretty crowded, which is not
necessarily a good thing when you are naked with a bunch of strangers.
Suna Yu
This is one of the few onsens out east that require swimsuits. Situated
on a sandy stretch of the Kussharo Peninsula off of Route 278, water gushes
up out of the sand. Very popular with tourists and very crowded, even
for Kussharo.
Kussharo Han no Yu
Also just off of Route 278, this onsen is literally an arm's reach from
the shore of Lake Kussharo. Bathing areas are segregated, but with the two
sides separated only by a low rock wall.
Basic Data on the Northern Territories
(Oct., 2000) -- Hokkaido Gov.
by William Kennedy
■ The Northern Territories
The Northern Territories is the name given to the four islands closest
to Hokkaido. The closest island, Kaigara Island (in the Habomai Group),
is 3.7 km off the coast of Nemuro's Nosappu Peninsula. The combined land
area of the islands (Etorofu, Kunashiri, Shikotan and the Habomai Group)
is 5,036 km2. It is similar to that of Chiba Prefecture, and is more than
that of Osaka, Kyoto, Kanagawa Prefecture, or Tokyo.
■ The Northern Territories Issue
On August 9, 1945, the Soviet Union violated the neutrality pact which
was in effect at that time between the Soviet Union and Japan, and became
involved in the war against a Japan that was already on the brink of defeat.
Between August 29 and September 5, the Russians used military force to
occupy the Northern Territories. The Japanese inhabitants were forcibly
deported from the islands, and the illegal occupation has continued until
the present.
■ The Northern Territories Before the End of the War
Before the end of the war, the livelihoods of the Japanese residents of
the islands were based on the thriving fishery of the area. Each island
had its own administrative building, school and post office. Festivals
and other events were held, and children and adults alike lived rewarding
lives.
On August 15, 1945, when the war ended, there were 17,291 people living
on the islands. However by 1949, these residents had been forced to abandon
their property and possessions and leave the islands. Eighty percent of
them set up home on the neighbouring island of Hokkaido. By the end of
March 2000 almost half had passed away, and 9,009 people are still alive.
■ Exchanges without passports or visas
Until the territorial problem is solved, both Russia and Japan will refuse
to respect each other's claims or legal positions. To promote mutual understanding
between Japan and the Northern Territories, so-called "exchanges
without passports or visas" have been taking place since April 1992.
Former residents and their families, young people, technical experts and
people involved in activities to secure the return of the islands are
taking part in positive exchanges in their respective fields.
■ Information
For details on the Northern Territories, please see our Hokkaido website.
http://www.pref.hokkaido.jp
(English / Japanese)
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