"Summertime, and the livin' is easy ..." - George Gershwin

So you made it. Summer. Another six-month Hokkaido winter has come and gone, followed by the six weeks of spring and the rainy season everyone tells you doesn't happen up here. Ahead, about the time the next issue of this magazines comes out, the leaves will start to rust and then it's only a matter of time before the white stuff starts dumping down again. Sigh.
But forget about that. Think about now. Summer. Time to get out and enjoy the small window of opportunity we are allowed up here. But if your idea of getting out doesn't go any further than sitting under the trees at the beer gardens in Odori Park or shuffling out with the masses to Furano to see the lavender, then there's a whole lot more Hokkaido you are missing.
Those of us who actually live here may not be aware of how lucky we are. You can only hear phrases like "beautiful nature" and "much green" so often before you get a little jaded. It takes a view from outside to set things straight. Pick up any guidebook you want, and there will be raves about Hokkaido. Even the good people at Lonely Planet put aside their apparent reservations about Japan and wipe the smirks off their faces long enough to give a straight assessment.
There's hiking, camping (not those parking lots with toilets in the suburbs, either) or simply kicking back and enjoying views unlike anything else in Japan, or the world, for that matter.
Xene has put together a sampling of what Hokkaido has to offer, a kind of idiot's guide to the outdoors. We've tried to account for various tastes and preferences, whether you are a backpacker or subway rider.
Whatever you're going to do, though, do it quickly. No one who lives in Hokkaido has to be reminded how fleeting the summer is here. In the higher reaches of Daisetsuzan Park, the chill in the air only grudgingly disappeared in the last month or so. Meanwhile, in the sporting goods stores in downtown Sapporo, the surf gear is about to make way for the snowboards. So get out there.

LOCAL HEROES
You don't have to be a rugged trailblazer to enjoy Hokkaido's attractions. There are many parks and trails close enough that even the most citified types can enjoy a day out and be back downtown in time to get in a nomihodai.

Vankei Shimin no Mori
Taken directly, Shimin no Mori translates to the vaguely North Korean-sounding "Citizen's Woodland", although "Public Forest" is a little less intimidating. Vankei, on the western outskirts of Chuo-ku, is known chiefly as Sapporo's nearest public ski facility. In summer, the area is home to some five and a half kilometers of trails that wind around Mt. Mitsubishi. Simply take the Tozai subway line to Maruyama Station and transfer to the Vankei bus.

Makomanai Park
Located at the southern end of the Nanboku subway line, Makomanai is a favorite with cyclists and runners.

Nopporo Forest Park
The tourists come out for the museum and the historical village, which both have their charms. You should come for the 30 km of trails through the forest.

FURTHER AFIELD
Hokkaido's real attractions are found further outside of Sapporo, in the north-central area of the island, and on the east coast. Unfortunately, getting around gets tougher the further you get from the city. JR Hokkaido has been pretty ruthless in cutting back service in the countryside, despite the fact that the company loses potloads of money every year, anyway. Though down to the bare bones, the service is still yards better than what most of us are used to at home. You need to either plan a schedule as precise as that for a lunar landing or, better yet, somehow get your hands on a car. You'll be glad you did.

Taisetsuzan National Park
Called "the Roof of Hokkaido" on what must have been a bad day at the tourism office, Daisetsuzan is a huge park which includes Asahidake, Hokkaido's tallest mountain and the stunning Sounkyo Gorge. Located near Asahikawa, Taisetsuzan can be done from Sapporo in one day, but most people suggest you take a couple.

ONSENS
- Come on in, the water's fine
Most foreigners in this country see onsens, particularly outdoor rotemburos, as proof that Japan is indeed a superior, more advanced country. In winter or summer, daytime or night, there are fewer things better. Hokkaido boasts more than 100 free natural hot springs. Most are out east near Lake Kussharo or on the Shiretoko Peninsula. Some are completely in the wild, others have undergone a little bit of improvement. Similarly, some are segregated (kind of) into male and female, while others are mixed. Here are some of the best-regarded ones, but choosing a favorite onsen is a very personal matter, so you might want to just try them all.

Seseki Onsen
Near the town of Rausu halfway up Shiretoko, Seseki is a natural pool formed by heated water flowing out of a crack in the rocks a longside the sea. It is so close, in fact, that it is submerged at high tide, making timing important. On a clear day, you can see Kunashiri, one of the disputed islands claimed by both Japan and Russia. Sit back, look out at the island while sipping a beer chilled in the sea next to you and consider the vagaries of global geopolitics. Or not.

Aidomari Onsen
This mixed wooden bath was originally built for local fishermen and seaweed gatherers. Be careful not to upset the locals during the fishing season, which is right around now, actually.

Kuma no Yu
This hot spring is on the Rausu River near the Shiretoko Pass on Route 334. Women are offered their choice of their own fenced-off bath or a large mixed pool. The name translates roughly as the Bear's Bath, but there is no mention of whether they get their own area.

Kamuiwakka Falls
This mixed hot spring is one of the most famous in Hokkaido. The entire river, including the basin of the falls, is a hot spring.

Kussharo
Kussharo has the advantage of being closer to Sapporo and more accessible. It also has the disadvantage of being closer to Sapporo, which means more people and more rules. Those with the time are probably better off to soldier further along until they reach Shiretoko.

Wakoto Onsen
At the foot of the Wakoto Peninsula on Lake Kussharo, this mixed hot spring has a changing room and space for about 20 people at one time. It is famous for its view of the lake, but it can get pretty crowded, which is not necessarily a good thing when you are naked with a bunch of strangers.

Suna Yu
This is one of the few onsens out east that require swimsuits. Situated on a sandy stretch of the Kussharo Peninsula off of Route 278, water gushes up out of the sand. Very popular with tourists and very crowded, even for Kussharo.

■ The Northern Territories
The Northern Territories is the name given to the four islands closest to Hokkaido. The closest island, Kaigara Island (in the Habomai Group), is 3.7 km off the coast of Nemuro's Nosappu Peninsula. The combined land area of the islands (Etorofu, Kunashiri, Shikotan and the Habomai Group) is 5,036 km2. It is similar to that of Chiba Prefecture, and is more than that of Osaka, Kyoto, Kanagawa Prefecture, or Tokyo.

■ The Northern Territories Issue
On August 9, 1945, the Soviet Union violated the neutrality pact which was in effect at that time between the Soviet Union and Japan, and became involved in the war against a Japan that was already on the brink of defeat. Between August 29 and September 5, the Russians used military force to occupy the Northern Territories. The Japanese inhabitants were forcibly deported from the islands, and the illegal occupation has continued until the present.

■ The Northern Territories Before the End of the War
Before the end of the war, the livelihoods of the Japanese residents of the islands were based on the thriving fishery of the area. Each island had its own administrative building, school and post office. Festivals and other events were held, and children and adults alike lived rewarding lives.
On August 15, 1945, when the war ended, there were 17,291 people living on the islands. However by 1949, these residents had been forced to abandon their property and possessions and leave the islands. Eighty percent of them set up home on the neighbouring island of Hokkaido. By the end of March 2000 almost half had passed away, and 9,009 people are still alive.

■ Exchanges without passports or visas
Until the territorial problem is solved, both Russia and Japan will refuse to respect each other's claims or legal positions. To promote mutual understanding between Japan and the Northern Territories, so-called "exchanges without passports or visas" have been taking place since April 1992. Former residents and their families, young people, technical experts and people involved in activities to secure the return of the islands are taking part in positive exchanges in their respective fields.

■ Information
For details on the Northern Territories, please see our Hokkaido website.
http://www.pref.hokkaido.jp (English / Japanese)