Sip into something more comfortable: sake
(Feb. 1997)
by Kaoru Yamaguchi and Yuko Endo
Any lover of art, wine or even sports will tell you: The more you know about
something, the bettter you can appreciate it. On a chilly Hokkaido evening,
it may seem hard to imagine enjoying a steaming cup of sake even more, but
connoisseurs insist it's well worth the effort.
Many people do not realize that the Japanese word sake is a blanket term
that can cover any alcoholic drink, from whisky to wine. The English sake refers
to several different kinds of drinks, the principal two being seishu and
jizake. (Japanese characters are included in this story for the convenience
of shoppers.)
Seishu refers to mass-produced sake versus the locally-brewed jizake. Because
each jizake brewery produces the drink in small quantities, it can be difficult
to find the more popular ones.
But regardless of the type, the flavor and aroma vary according to several
factors, including the water, rice and koji (mold) used, the climate, and
the skill of the brewmaster. The taste is described according to five qualities:
sweetness, dryness, sourness, bitterness and bite. When they are in harmony,
the result is delicious sake Tasters use a special gauge to measure dryness/sweetness
(nihonshu-do, and sourness.
The process typically runs from October to April, with bottling and sales
of that year's sake starting the summer after the brewing is complete. Although
manufacturers of seishu today rely on computer controlled operations, this
kind of sake originally was produced by the traditional method still used
for jizake. The following five steps are followed under the direction of
the brewmaster (toji).
Hulled polished rice is washed by hand in well water and soaked in this
water to prepare for steaming. Second, the rice is steamed in large wooden
tubs and spread on straw mats to cool. A portion is mixed with spores of
a mold called koji in a special room where the temperature is held at 28
degrees Celsius. Third, the mold converts starch to sugar, and the resulting
koji rice is combined with plain steamed rice, water and yeast to make the
basic mash (moto). Then, more water, koji rice, and plain steamed rice are
added to produce the final mash, which is left to ferment for three to four
weeks, before being filtered. Finally, the filtered mash is pressed into
rectangular containers to produce cloudy, raw sake Upon settling, the resulting
clear refined sake is pasteurized and aged.
Additional types of sake result from variations in the process. For honjozo-shu,
alcohol or sugar is added during brewing to adjust the flavor and achieve
uniformity among each brewing vessel. (A skilled brewmaster can yield the
same result in other kinds of sake without these extras, in which case the
product is called junmai-shu.) Ginjo-shu is made from rice that is highly
polished to reduce protein and fat, constituents that adversely affect flavor.
The result is a clear, dry sake that poses less threat of causing a hangover.
Those who want a closer glimpse of this age-old process can contact the
following breweries.
- Otokoyama, Inc. (2jo 7chome, Nagayama, Asahikawa / 0166-48-1931) Tours
from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., Mon. to Fri. Adjoining museum displays materials
concerning sake brewing.
- Kobayashi-Shuzo, Inc. (109banchi 3chome, Nishiki, Kuriyama-cho, Yubari-gun
/ 01237-25-1001) No tours. Sake vessels on display at Kita-no-Homare Memorial
Hall (10 a.m. to 4 p.m.; closed Mon.). Roman (honjozo) and Kita-no-Nishiki
(junmai and ginjo-shu) are recommended. Sake festival Apr. 12-13.
- Tanaka-Shuzo, Inc. (5go 2ban 3chome, Shikinai, Otaru / 0134-21-2390) Tours
10 a.m. to 5 p.m. except Mon. Their gen-shu is very popular, available here
and at a few stores in Otaru.
- Kita-no-Homare-Shuzo, Inc. (10banchi, S3 E3, Chuo-ku, Sapporo / 011-231-9322)
Tours by appointment. Their Yukisaku is highly regarded. Museum next-door.
- Kinteki-Shuzo (7-71ban, Aza Chuo Totukawacho / 0125-76-2341) Tours available.
Kita-no-Junmai-Shu is popular. The company will personalize any bottle you
buy.
- Godoshusei, Inc. (1955-20-4, Minami Asahikawa 0166-31-4131) Tours 9 a.m.
to 4 p.m. Taisetsu-no-Kura is popular. The company uses only Hokkaido rice.
He's the Man With the Movies! (Aug. 1996)
by Sonia Knecht, with Yuko Endo, Fumiyo Yahoko and Kaoru Yamaguchi
"Why are movies in Japan so expensive?" is a question often heard.
For the answer we went to Tomiyasu Sugai, president of Sugai Entertainment
Co. Ltd. Upon hearing our question Sugai was quick to say, "The price
is almost three times that in the United States." "What I do," he further
explained, "is to try to provide the highest quality movies available, rather
than ones whose cost is high." This philosophy is a good indicator of the
man who has long loved movies and supported them in Hokkaido.
In Japan, 60 percent of the revenue from ticket sales goes back to the distributing
agency and the remaining 40 percent is for the theater. This 40 percent
covers the much higher overhead, such as rent, that the Japanese theater
faces. However in America, only 10 percent of the revenue goes back to the
theater. The rest is made up in concession sales. Of the remaining revenue
from ticket sales, distributing agencies take their cut. In Japan, the distributing
agencies want to make the same profit, so the theaters are forced because
of this and their high overhead to charge the consumer more. Other factors
contributing to the high cost of movies in Japan include translation costs
for a foreign film, the re-editing of the film for Japanese standards, and
the shipping of the film. In addition, most of the theaters in America are
owned by large corporations which can absorb costs and overhead much easier.
In Japan, the majority of the theaters are privately owned. All of these
add up to the high cost of movies in Japan.
Currently in the movie industry, distributing agencies are having more and
more influence over movie theaters and production. In the U.S., seven distributing
companies and Disney are in full control of the film world.
In Japan, there are three big distributing companies, Toho, Shochiku and
Toei, which are divided into two groups that supply each theater with movies
coming from all over the world. Movies popular in America flow into Japan
through these systems.
How much money can a movie make? A movie bringing in over one billion yen
is a box-office hit; one bringing in over three billion yen is called a
"home run". Occasionally movies are priced lower because the cast and crew
are not well known. These are handled by minor distributing agencies.
The Sugai Building offers second-run movies for about half the cost of most
theaters. Many theaters in Sapporo participate in "Movie Fan's Day" by offering
admission for \1,000 on the first of March, June, September and December.
What about the future of the movie industry? "Movies are educational, entertaining
and innovative," says Mr. Sugai. Almost everyone has been affected by the
magic of the movies. Going to the movies is one of the best pastimes available
today. However in Japan, "the number of motion-picture theaters in business
declined to 1800 this year." This decline is attributed to the development
of movies on video and the increasing number of television channels.
Pachinko's Push for Respectability (Aug. 1996)
by Michael O'Connell with Takako Mitsuya
Toshiro Higashira's company posts annual sales of 40 million yen. But instead
of respect, his children get taunted in school for their father's profession:
pachinko parlor management.
Despite the wild popularity of the pastime-some 30 million Japanese, or
one in four, regularly play-pachinko suffers from negative perceptions.
Parlors are seen as crowded, smoky places where one is as likely to bump
into an underworld figure as a fellow player. To make matters worse, this
spring saw a rash of children suffering accidental deaths while their parents
were absorbed in the game.
But Higashihara, who is president of Kyoukou Shouji Kabushikigaisha, which
operates the Taiyo Group of eleven pachinko parlors in the Sapporo area,
says it's time for the maligned industry to stand up and be counted for
its economic clout and social significance. "Pachinko owners," he urges,
"should acknowledge that they are an important part of society and try not
to downplay their business." He adds that, although sales in Hokkaido equal
the Hokkaido Development Bureau's annual budget, industry members try to
keep a low profile given well-documented financial irregularities and chronic
negative publicity.
Higashihara acknowledges that the struggle for respectability is an uphill
one. For nine consecutive years, the biggest tax evader was a pachinko company,"
he says, adding that pachinko is working on many fronts to reinvent itself.
For starters, game makers and parlor operators plan to offer "low-stake"
games, starting this fall, to address the image of pachinko as contributing
to social ills. New machines limiting a player's win or loss to 50,000
per round of play, will replace high-stakes machines that drove the industry's
feverish growth in the '80s.
Higashihara has proposed taking crime out of the pachinko equation by making
it legal for parlors to trade gifts for money. Currently, some ninety percent
of players engage in defacto illegal gambling by swapping prizes for cash
at nearby establishments operated expressly for this purpose - often by
the Japanese Mafia. And he would like to see an increase in the top value
permitted for prizes, to make them more appealing in and of themselves.
Financial markets are also noticing pachinko's stature with an eye to legitimize
the industry. Higashihara says America's NASDAQ stock exchange is interested
in listing pachinko companies, provided regulations in Japan change to allow
this. Ten companies have expressed interest in such listing, and six pachinko
companies have formed an organization to promote listing on the Japanese
stock market, which the industry's semi-legitimate status has so far prevented.
Such public financing would be an enormous boon to a business that boasts
18,000 parlors nationwide, 890 of them in Hokkaido.
For his own part, Higashihara donated five million yen to the Hokkaido International
School last year, following the lead of companies which promote community
relations through charity.
One high-profile measure designed to keep financial tabs on pachinko parlors
backfired this year. To monitor sales more closely, the National Police
Agency, which overseas entertainment businesses including pachinko, promoted
a prepaid card system. Nihon Game Card and Nihon Leisure Card System, whose
respective majority stock owners are Sumitomo Trading Co. and Mitsubishi
Trading Co., developed such systems, only to take a financial drubbing in
the rampant forgery that ensued. Some pachinko parlors even abetted the
forgers, since the gaming centers were reimbursed regardless of the card's
genuineness.
More than anything, physical gentrification is redeeming the pachinko parlor.
Clean, spacious, modern centers are replacing the cramped, smoky establishments
of yesterday. Some have dimmed the omnipresent atmosphere. Taiyo Group took
the extra step of hiring an instructor to train the staff in customer relations,
just as hotels and department stores often call in such consultants.
A final stigma is the game's association with Japan's Korean minority, a
population that experiences widespread discrimination. Only thirty percent
of parlors are owned by Japanese, with the rest operated by Koreans or Chinese.
Decades of prejudice will have to reversed of this additional barrier to
acceptance of the pastime is to be overcome.
Higashihara has proposed taking crime out of the pachinko equation by making
it legal for parlors to trade gifts for money. Currently, some ninety percent
of players engage in de-facto illegal gambling by swapping prizes for cash
at nearby establishments operated expressly for this purpose - often by
Japanese mafia. And he would like to see an increase in the top value permitted
for prizes, to make them more appealing in and of themselves.
Financial markets are also noticing pachinko's stature with an eye to legitimizing
the industry. Higashihara says America's NASDAQ (National Association of
Securities Dealers Automated Quotations) stock exchange is interested in
listing pachinko companies, provided regulations in Japan change to allow
this. Ten companies have expressed interest in such listing, and six pachinko
companies have formed an organization to promote listing on the Japanese
stock market, which the industry's semi-legitimate status has so far prevented.
Such public financing would be an enormous boon to a business that boasts
18,000 parlors nationwide, 890 of them in Hokkaido.
For his own part, Higashihara donated five million yen to the Hokkaido International
School last year, following the lead of companies which promote community
relations through charity.
One high-profile measure designed to keep financial tabs on pachinko parlors
backfired this year. To monitor sales more closely, the National Police
Agency, which oversees entertainment businesses including pachinko, promoted
a prepaid card system. Nihon Game Card and Nihon Leisure Card System, whose
respective majority stock owners are Sumitomo Trading Co. and Mitsubishi
Trading Co., developed such systems, only to take a financial drubbing in
the rampant forgery that ensued. Some pachinko parlors even abetted the
forgers, since the gaming centers were reimbursed regardless of the cards'
genuineness.
More than anything, physical gentrification is redeeming the pachinko parlor.
Clean, spacious, modern centers are replacing the cramped, smoky establishments
of yesterday. Some have dimmed the omnipresent neon. Taiyo Group took the
extra step of hiring an instructor to train the staff in customer relations,
just as hotels and department stores often call in such consultants.
A final stigma is the game's association with Japan's Korean minority, a
population that experiences widespread discrimination. Only thirty percent
of parlors are owned by Japanese, with the rest operated by Koreans or Chinese.
Decades of prejudice will have to be reversed if this additional barrier
to acceptance of the pastime is to be overcome.
Gay Pride Parade in Sapporo (May 1996)
by Justin Miller
Having attended college in Northhampton, Massachusetts-where homosexuality
is about as common as a Big Mac- I was curious to interview members of ILGA's
Sapporo Meeting (International Lesbian and Gay Association) and talk with
them about their upcoming parade, as well as their experiences being gay
in Japan.
Being 'different' in any country is difficult, but in a country as homogenous
as Japan it is especially trying indeed. Thus creating awareness and generating
new images of lesbians and gays are the main goals of Sapporo Meeting, Sapporo's
chapter of ILGA. Although one of the group's main aims is promoting a greater
visibility of gay issues, as well as that of gay people, it is equally committed
to fighting for the rights of all who are discriminated against, including
ethnic minorities, women, the handicapped, and N.J.'s (Non-Japanese). This
is the most impressive aspect about Sapporo Meeting: the commitment to fight
discrimination on all fronts
Sapporo Meeting was founded in 1989 and has since grown to include over
a hundred members. Within Sapporo Meeting are many subgroups, all with specific
aims. These include a special youth/H.S. group, a women's lesbian/bisexual
rap group, and an AIDS/HIV group. In addition, Sapporo Meeting hosts a gay/lesbian
film festival in March, as well as various Gay Nights throughout the year,
and sponsors amonthly newsletter.
The first thing the Sapporo Journal asked the members was to explain how
gay people were viewed in Japan, as well as where the Japanese gay movement
was headed. To this they responded that the biggest problem is a lack of
visibility. This is especially true with regard to gay women. Japanese people,
to a large extent ignore the existence of gay people. When acknowledged,
gays are thought of as kimochi warui (stirring uneasiness), hentai (perverted),
or at best as having a strange shumi (tastes). As in the west, many of the
typical stereotypes exist. However, unlike the West, where religion is the
source of viewing homosexuality as sinful and abnormal, in Japan this prejudice
arises from a variety of factors that are uniquely Japanese. These are 1)
the strict separation of the two sexes, 2)the way in which the traditional
family is viewed and structured as the societal base, and 3) the concept
of futsu (normality), and anything that differs from this being deemed abnormal.
Due to the relative invisibility of gays in Japanese society, the only exposure
that is given in the mass media is negative - produced by heterosexuals
with the goal of poking fun at gays for the sake of laughter. Programs where
gays look at gays, or straights look at gays from the gay perspective simply
do not exist.
With regard to coming out, the overwhelming response was that it was a private
matter, and that it depended on the person. However, all agreed that the
reason why it is so necessary for people to come out more is that heterosexuals
believe that the entire population is straight. Also, the silence of many
people is powerful, and this allows the negative stereotypes, as well as
discrimination to continue. According to the Sapporo Meeting, most of the
gays in Japan have not only, not come out to others, but they have not even
begun to come out to themselves. It is for this reason that there is a perpetual
denial of the existence of gay people.
Although there seems to be many obstacles to overcome, the members of the
Sapporo Meeting are very optimistic that progress is being made and hold
strongly to their vision of a society in which all can live freely. On June
30 there will be the first annual Lesbigay Parade in Nakajima park at 11:00
A.M. The route will include Ekimaedori, Susukino, Odori Park and will finish
at Hokkaidocho. Expected to turn out are at least 250 people from a wide
variety of backgrounds, all with a common commitment to human rights. The
members of the Sapporo Meeting would like to invite all people (straight,
gay, ethnic minorities, handicapped, as well as N.J.'s) to join them in
marching for freedom and a better society for all. For information concerning
the march or about the Sapporo Meeting call (011) 742-7719.
It's a Crime (May 1996)
by Chris King
After 13 years, the Japanese Ministry of Health has finally admitted it's
involvement in the cover-up of imported, unheated blood products by drug
companies that lead to over 2,000 hemophiliacs being infected with the HIV
virus. So far, over 400 of the hemophiliacs have died from AIDS-related
illnesses. The plot thickened when details began surfacing about payoffs,
Ministry of Health officials being given high positions at the drug companies
in question and other ethical breaches. Calling this a crime might be accurate,
but offenses are still being committed by the Ministry of Health.
At present, several drugs are being used in North America, Europe and other
countries around the world that are shown to have surprising results in
combating AIDS. Showing particluar effectiveness are protease inhibitors
which have recently hit the market; individuals taking these amazing drugs
have shown marked increases in T-cell counts (the immune system cells that
help fight viruses) and decreases in "viral loads" (viruses that cause illness).
While not a cure, these drugs help build up the immunological defenses that
individuals need to fight off illnesses and thus live longer lives.
The results are still out on the long-term effects of these drugs, but for
people living with AIDS (PLWA's), the potential side effects are secondary
to the benefits. Among the benefits are a better quality of life and for
that matter, possibly prolonged life. That's where the problem lies; the
Japanese government and Ministry of Health, as with the delayed announcement
of their guilt in this cover-up, are dragging out the process of approval
for numerous drugs to fight AIDS.
Only two anti-viral drugs have been approved and are being used in Japan:
AZT and DDI. They might be a good start, but after approximately 18 months
their effectiveness diminishes. Therefore, PLWA's are left with no other
alternatives. D4T and 3TC, two other anti-viral drugs are being tested in
Japan, but it is unsure when they will be approved. It is rumored that DDC,
a drug similar to the those mentioned above will be available this spring,
but rumors are rampant and facts are hard to come by. In addition, all these
drugs may have their merits, but as far as the data stands now, none are
as effective as protease inhibitors. However, protease inhibitors will not
be available until September (maybe).
This is where the Ministry of Health and the Japanese government could redeem
themselves, or at least give some hope those they infected with the AIDS
virus and others dealing with this disease. They could speed up the process
of drug approval when dealing with illnesses such as AIDS and cancer. Given
the apathetic attitude and bureaucratic ineffectiveness of the Japanese
government as a whole, I doubt that anything will happen quickly. However,
many PLWA's don't have another 13 years to wait for a decision to be made.
"Gaijin" or Just Another Stranger in A Strange
Land (Feb. 1996)
by Mary Westring with Hiroko Fujisaku
"We're not in Kansas anymore, Toto" or in Zambia, Germany, Sweden, or Korea,
China, Canada or Peru, Hong Kong or the Philippines. Living as a foreigner
in a different culture can be problematic, exciting and rewarding. Necessitating
adjustments by both the foreign visitors and the citizens of that culture.
Sapporo has experienced a burgeoning of the "Gaijin" population in the past
few years; a relatively new phenomenon in Japan given her historical isolation
and the resulting limited exposure to foreigners. The Sapporo Journal is
interested in exploring this interchange of cultures and has begun by questioning
a number of foreigners. Those questioned were men and women, the young and
not so young, black, Asian and Caucasian, those who are here for a very
short time and those that intend to stay indefinitely. Several respondents
are students, some English teachers and others have Japanese spouses. The
impressions expressed about life in Japan range from the very negative to
the very positive. The majority of respondents indicated a realistic and
clear understanding of their position in a culture that they were not born
to.
People of Northern European extraction, especially those from the United
States and Canada, report less negative experiences, and have had less or
no incidents of discrimination. They feel more welcomed than those from
other Asian countries, South America, or Africa, and the non-Caucasian respondents
agree that this seems to be true. It is interesting to note that the word
"gaijin" is thought to be less offensive to the former group while several
respondents of Asian and African extraction feel highly offended by the
word. "Less than human", "outsider", "them", (with derogatory
overtones), "you don't belong" are meanings they feel are conveyed by the
term. The tone of voice used carries the speaker's meaning and most reported
noting the difference. "Gai koku jin" (foreign country person) softens the
meaning for some, but is still distasteful. Several men have been stung
by the frightened reaction of women and children who have actually crossed
the street to avoid them, uttering the words "Abunai, Gaijin!" ("careful,
foreigner") with alarm. The women report no such experiences but several
have felt that assumptions have been made concerning their sexual availability
on the basis of their foreign status. A woman from another Asian country
stated that she hears only negative generalities about her culture and actively
works to dispel what she consider to be unfair misconceptions.
Japanese people are thought by most to be kind, polite and exceedingly generous
with their time, patience and gifts. However, after an initial interest
and enthusiasm, close friendships seem slower to develop due to what many
see as a natural reserve, a coolness and the private nature of many Japanese.
It became evident during the questioning that those who had a good grasp
of the language were in a better position to nurture intimate relationships.
The down side of this knowledge is understanding the derogatory things said
about them by people who assume their words are not understood. Northern
Europeans reported a greater welcome and an easier time making friends than
those from other ethnic backgrounds. The casual warmth of stranger to stranger,
the baring of one's emotions and a spontaneity in everyday situations experienced
in their own countries is sorely missed by some, notably those from Africa,
South America, and America.
What is sensed by some as an active avoidance of them in public by Japanese
people is explained by others to be a shyness and a discomfort in speaking
English with its potential for embarrassment. Several feel that they are
valued more for their ability to correct English usage, to be "language
machines", than for themselves. One woman solves that problem by refusing
to correct language mistakes or engage in such conversations while in a
social and "equal" setting off the job. Many reported a kind, gentle and
helpful correction of their Japanese, a forgiveness for incorrect usage
and an obvious delight when the attempt is made to communicate in Japanese.
Finding housing was problematic because of the need for sponsorship and
a reluctance to rent to transients or those living together but not related.
Only one respondent reported an extremely negative situation involving outright
discrimination. One woman was shocked at the sexism inherent in the fact
that her husband's signature on the lease was the one required although
she had done all the searching and negotiating. Neighbors have been cordial
and polite to most and situations of solicitude and kindness were related.
The more formal and strict expectations of employers is seen as an example
of an unbending and rigid cultural trait by some but the reason for smooth
efficiency by others. Some report feeling distrusted as foreigners who are
not expected to understand the concept of company loyalty and are the last
to hear of changes in policy. Pay is seen as generous and benefits fair.
Sapporo is appreciated for its fine public transportation, the easily understood
grid system of its streets, the healthy economy and the relative low cost
of living. The orderliness of everyday life and the cleanliness of the streets
is noted. The close proximity to some of the best skiing in the world, its
relative inexpensiveness, and the availability of beautiful hiking and camping
areas make Sapporo an attractive city to many. The efficient handling of
the most prodigious amounts of snow and the ability of Sapporo's citizens
to cope, is a source of amazement. Those who have lived elsewhere in Japan
feel that Sapporoites are far friendlier and more accommodating than those
in other cities.
Japan is a complex culture with many contradictions that defies a simple
description and those questioned have a fascination and an appreciation
of the society and its people. They look at their Japanese sojourn as a
positive and rewarding experience. It is seen as a privilege, a growing
experience, enriching and expanding, sometimes maddening and frustrating,
confusing and lonely, but never dull. |