Japan's Unique Autumn? - Other countries enjoy fall, too (Aug., 2002, #29)
By Carey Paterson

L ike native peoples everywhere, the Algonquin Indians of North America used legend to explain the natural world. The most dramatic phenomenon they had to account for was autumn's explosion of crimson. The Algonguins believed the forests had been stained red when hunters wounded the Great Bear in autumn, an event the trees commemorate in their foliage. Biologists have a different explanation. They know that leaves change when the green pigments fade and the yellows, which have been there since spring, become visible. As if realizing each year that less is more, nature subtracts accordingly. In some species, these yellows then metamorphose into the bloody reds of Algonquin legend.
What triggers these changes? If you said the cold, you'd be wrong. In fact, it's the length of night. As the days grow shorter, the lengthening night causes the production of chlorophyll - the green pigment - to slow and then stop. The timing of this change is determined more by a tree's species than by its environment. Trees turn first in the mountains not because of where they are, but because of what they are: alpine species. If you grow a mountain species at sea level, it will turn roughly in synch with its alpine kin. Not that weather is irrelevant. Warm sunny days followed by crisp, cool nights produce the most vivid colors: The sun promotes sugar generation and the cold shuts the veins leading to the tree. The more sugars are trapped, the stronger are the colors. In Hokkaido, the front of changing hues starts in September and progresses through the island's three plant zones, from alpine in the middle of Hokkaido, to sub-alpine in the north and middle, and finally to the cool temperate zone in the south and west.
Shedding all those leaves every year may seem like a waste, but it's not. It helps the tree avoid snow damage and prevents the loss of moisture that happens when leaves exchange gasses with the air. Think of a leafless tree as holding its breath until spring.
In tropical forests, the leaves fall gradually throughout the year rather than all at once. No dramatic rush of colors there. Evergreens do the same, constantly losing and re-growing their needles, which last two or three years before being shed. For dramatic autumn colors, you have to go where there are deciduous broadleaf trees, and Japan is just such a place. Other areas include the Eastern U.S., the Rocky Mountains, southeastern Canada, southwest Europe and elsewhere in East Asia.
Japan has a particularly deep tradition of appreciating fall foliage. The practice of momiji-gari, or "searching for red leaves," is as old as Japan, or perhaps even older. The word derives from momizu ("to dye red"), and gari ("hunting"), although over the centuries, momizu has changed to momiji, or "maple." In the courtly Heian era, one thousand years ago, momiji-gari was one of the most eagerly anticipated events of the year. Kimono-clad nature lovers swapped verse while enjoying the scenery. As with many traditional Japanese festivals, it was also an excuse for drunken revels, although that tradition is more faithfully preserved in cherry-blossom viewing. Hokkaidoans today travel to hot springs throughout the prefecture to enjoy fall, particularly to Jozankei, Hoheikyo Dam, the Daisetsuzan Mountains, Biei, Lake Akan, Shiretoko Toge, Lake Mashu, Niseko, Lake Hangetsu, Lake Onuma - pretty much anywhere there is a hot spring. (See Xene Picks, p. 6.)
Commentators on Japan have been quick to emphasize the cultural significance of autumn.

There are two particularly expressive words that are intimately associated with fall: sabishi and shinmiri...The first of these words means "loneliness" plus a type of "emptiness" which is used to describe the feeling that often assails the more sensitive Japanese with the coming of the first signs of fall...Shinmiri...refers to a type of atmosphere that is charged with intimate tranquility and sad contentment which is characteristic of Japan's traditional lifestyle. (Boye De Mente, Discovering Cultural Japan)

Autumn leaves, called kouyou in Japanese, have featured prominently in every Japanese art and craft, with the possible exception of sword making. You can find them embroidered on kimono, painted on folding screens and lacquer ware, and highlighted in poetry, prose and drama. They are appreciated for more than just their beauty, however. They also serve as a metaphor for fullness and mortality. In haiku, the moon, the autumn wind, frost, cicadas, chestnuts, chrysanthemums, wild yams, and matsutake mushrooms are just a few of the many seasonal keywords used to conjure up fall and its connotations of completion and finality.
However formalized the tradition of autumn appreciation may be in Japan, it would be too much to describe it as a distinguishing feature of Japanese culture. Wherever the leaves turn, people have revered autumn and have drawn the same metaphors. Look at lines from Autumn, by Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, an American:

O what a glory doth this world put on
For him who, with a fervent heart, goes forth
Under the bright and glorious sky, and looks
On duties well performed, and days well spent!
For him the wind, ay, and the yellow leaves,
Shall have a voice, and give him eloquent teachings.

Compare this with haikuist Matsuo Basho:

not to think of yourself
as someone who did not count --
Festival of the Souls

Not identical sentiments, but the poets are certainly on the same page. Now consider this from Autumn by A.S. Pushkin, a Russian:

A crimson glow still flits across her face.
Today she lives, tomorrow she is gone.

And Basho again:

soon to die
yet no sign of it
in the cicada's chirp

From reading these verses, it should be no surprise that people in other countries appreciate viewing the autumn colors. Just ask the Algonquins. Or ask the State of Wisconsin, which reports that fall-color tourists add more than $1 billion to the local economy. That's a lot of appreciation.




GETTING INTO AUTUMN (Aug., 2002, #29)
By Allyson Ashfield

Summer-lovers out there know that the coming of autumn heralds the arrival of winter. Before you resign yourselves to curling up under the kotatsu and watching videos or propping up a bar until the rays of the sun blast forth, why not get into the change of seasons by going hiking?
Hiking isn't just for Olympic athletes, nor does it mean scaling a mountain with a 90-degree face. It's about being outdoors, enjoying the scenery, leaving towns and cities behind and reflecting on the day while sitting in an onsen. After all, most of Japan is mountainous, so why ignore it? Autumn brings spectacular scenery and breathtaking views. So come on, get out there and enjoy it.
Having decided to put on your sturdy waterproof boots and hit the trails, what else are you going to take? It's a good idea to have a tough rucksack with a waist strap to distribute the weight, a waterproof jacket and trousers, water, food (onigiri is good), warm foul-weather clothing including gloves and a hat (not cotton, which loses its warmth once wet). Having a mobile phone for emergencies and a whistle to attract attention is a good idea. Around Kita-juni-jo Subway Station you'll find several good places to get gear: ICI Sports (pronounced "Ishii Sports"), Shugakuso and Patagonia.
Now that you've got your gear together, where are you going to go? Are you going to do a day hike, or an overnight hike? Near where you live, or farther afield? The good thing about Japan is the fantastic public transport system, which lets you get to most places with a little time and patience. You can even get English information about buses at the East Exit of JR Sapporo Station.
Japan also has a great system of mountain huts, due to the numbers of hikers and the popularity of yama ski (backcountry skiing). These make it possible for you to overnight without lugging lots of gear. The huts are basic shelters and not luxurious hotels, so you do need to bring a sleeping bag and mat, food, a cooking stove, gas and drinking water.
Now for a friendly word of warning. Always make sure to boil water from rivers in Hokkaido; otherwise, you could find yourself playing host to the deadly parasitic tapeworm larvae of Echinococcus. Incubation can take years, and once detected it's too late: The larvae destroys the liver of the host. Don't let this put you off hiking. For shorter hikes, carrying your water is not a problem, and if you're using a hut you can leave any water you won't need. With all that in mind, let's check out some mountains.
In the Sapporo area there are plenty of hikes within a bus ride of the city. A good hike with various options is Soranuma-dake ("sky pond mountain"). Take the bus from Makomanai Subway Station to Soranuma Tozan Guchi, the last stop. It's in what looks like part of a quarry. Follow the signs through the "quarry" to the trailhead (tozan guchi).
From the tozan guchi the trail meanders upwards, passing through forests and by small mountain ponds (numa). There are two mountain huts near Aonuma, the first pond. One was shuttered up when I was last there (perhaps it's the hut of a university or mountain club), but the newer and bigger one is open and accessible to all for a nominal fee for upkeep. From the huts proceed upward, passing Bankei Pond, which is to the right of the trail, and moving on to the summit (1,249 m). As you reach the ridge, be careful to go left at the fork, unless you want to traverse to Sapporo-dake and come out near Jozankei, six hours away. The summit offers views of the Pacific Ocean, the Sea of Japan, the Ishikari Plain, and the higher peaks southwest of Sapporo.
The hike to the huts takes about two hours, making this an ideal overnight hike. You could start later in the day and stop at the hut for the night, proceeding on to the summit (a further two hours away) the next day, soaking up the autumnal scenery and views of Mt. Yotei, Hokkaido's very own Fuji, at the summit, and descending later in the day. Alternatively you could leave early in the morning, drop off your overnight gear at the hut on the way to the summit, spend the night in the hut on the way down, and have a leisurely hike back to the bus stop the next day. Check the bus schedule carefully, as this is not a major route and weekends tend to have a different schedule. You could also get a bus to Soranuma Futamata and walk about thirty minutes to the trailhead.
Another good one-day hike out of Sapporo is Kamui-dake. From the bus terminal at JR Sapporo Station or from Makomanai Subway Station, take Jotetsu Bus to Jozankei and get off at Hyakumatsu-bashi. The trail starts on the side of the bridge opposite the bus stop. In the small wooden hut is a climber's registration book. It's a good idea to fill in your details -- name, address, number of people you're hiking with and start time -- so that if anything happens people know where you are. That said, I'm not sure who those people would be or when they might check, but it's better than nothing.
The trail traverses forests and passes through an open area called Ganbodai before reaching a rocky tabletop, the summit (983 m). It offers great views of the surrounding mountains and is a perfect place to sit, eat lunch and have a beer. The trail leads on to the adjoining Eboshi-dake, but it was virtually impassable the last time I was there and didn't look like a whole heap of fun. Better to head down and catch the bus back to Sapporo, or if you've got time, why not go just up the road to Jozankei for an onsen bath. The hike should take about five hours.
Farther afield is Asahi-dake ("sunrise mountain": 2,290.3 m) the highest mountain in Hokkaido and one of the most spectacular, especially in autumn. The good news is that if you don't fancy hiking up from the trailhead, there is a cable car (ropeway) costing about 1,500 yen. This takes you a good portion of the way up, leaving you with about a two- to three-hour hike to the summit. You don't even have to go all the way to the top to enjoy the scenery and really feel like you're in the mountains. You can just walk around at the cable car station and drink in your fill. If you decide to go to the summit, you'll find a steep climb from the cable car station that passes steaming sulphur vents, Sugatami-ike ("mirror pond"), the Asahi-dake mountain hut, and great spots overlooking the mountains of Daisetsuzan National Park. Slightly easier but equally rewarding is to hike up from the trailhead to the top cable car station, which should take about two to three hours.
Getting there is pretty easy. From JR Asahikawa Station, you can take Asahikawa Denki Kido Bus to the cable car station. The good news is that if you spend more than 2,000 yen at the cable car station and keep your receipts, the return bus is free. If you feel like staying overnight there's the mountain hut about a thirty-minute walk from the top cable car station or, near the bottom station, there is Asahi-dake Youth Hostel (a recently rebuilt wooden building) and a plethora of hotels and lodgings nestled together. There is also a campsite for those of you with tents. A visit to the Asahi-dake Visitors Centre is a good idea, as it has lots of maps and information, mostly in Japanese.
Niseko, southwest of Sapporo, is another area with many hiking trails and great views. It is home to several famous ski resorts collectively known as Niseko, although that name more accurately belongs to one small town to the west of the resort and its neighbouring mountain. Trains do run directly to Niseko from Sapporo and Hakodate, but these are not frequent, so check the schedules carefully. The start point for most hikes is Niseko-yama-no-ie, which is at Goshiki Onsen fifteen kilometres away. It is possible to get a bus from JR Niseko Station to Niseko-yama-no-ie, about a one-hour ride. Again check bus times carefully so you're not hanging around for ages. You could stay instead at Niseko Annupuri Youth Hostel and head off hiking the next day. Take the bus to Konbu Onsen, and after about twenty minutes get off at Niseko Annupuri Kokusai Ski Resort. The manager of the hostel has a good reputation and may even pick you up from Niseko if you call in advance.
From Goshiki Onsen there are various hikes including the Niseko Circuit. This is a seven-hour hike starting from the carpark and toilets on the main road. Follow the path over the bridge and up the manmade steps to the registration book. From here follow the trail, which is marked with pink stripes of tape or arrows spray-painted on rocks. Do the circuit anticlockwise, going towards Nitonupuri at the fork. The trail winds uphill to the rocky summit (1,080 m) and then descends to the road. Crossing the road, continue up to the summit of Chisenupuri (1,134 m) and then down to Chonuma, a big mountain pond that will be to your right and is an ideal place for a lunch break. Continue on the trail, re-crossing the road and passing through O-yachi, a marshland of wildflowers, until you come to O-numa on your right. This is another ideal place for a break and some food. The final part of the trail takes you through old sulphur mines and back to the fork. From here retrace your steps from the morning back to the carpark.
If you decide to do any of these hikes, I hope you enjoy them. Before you head out, get as much information as you can about where you're going, including maps. Good sources are The Lonely Planet Guide to Hiking in Japan, and Hokkaido Trekking and Onsen Guide published by the Sapporo International Communication Plaza Foundation. The latter guide is in English and Japanese, and costs about 400 yen.
A final word of warning before you're on your own. Hokkaido is home to the higuma, the Hokkaido brown bear. Although rarely seen by hikers on popular trails, they are alive and out there. Japanese hikers carry a bell to reduce the element of surprise, and encounters are rare. In all my hiking in Hokkaido, the closest I've ever come to the higuma is a mighty roar, which sounded like a lion, up a valley in the Daizetsuzan Mountains. Having said that, whilst hiking in the Hidaka Mountains last summer, a friend of mine popped behind a car at the trailhead for a quick pee, only to find a large pile of fresh bear poo.





To the Sea!
Three oceans for marine sports lovers
(June 2002)
By Carey Paterson

Dream Beach, and the Atka mackerel are running. Anglers reel in the fish, and Japanese sail and windsurf. If this doesn't strike you as strange, it should: This was back in May, and the water was zero Centigrade. Most Hokkaidoans don't go anywhere near the ocean until July.
We should. There's not a Dosanko on this island more than a couple of hours from the sea - or seas, since we have a choice of three. Locals say you can only swim the six weeks from July to mid-August, that after the Obon holidays you'll be savaged by killer jellyfish, swamped by titanic waves, or dragged under by ghosts. You can tell them this from me: Masaka! Or, as we say in English, What are you on about?
Any ocean-lover worth his salt knows the Hokkaido seas are swimmable from late June to late September, that a wet suit buys you another month at each end, that you have five splendid months to windsurf, body-board, bodysurf, surf, sail, sea kayak.... You get the picture.

THE SURFING TRINITY

Surfing comes in three varieties: traditional surfing, body-boarding and bodysurfing. The difference is where you are in the water. Surfers aren't: They stand balanced on their board. Body-boarders ride face down on a shorter board, and bodysurfers go boardless altogether, buoyed only by the sea.
The best surfing spots tend to be on the wavier Pacific side of Hokkaido, particularly around Tomakomai (Hama-Atsuma, Yufutsu, Shiraoi Gyoko). Erimo is more remote, but its windy, exposed coast promises pounding waves (Hyakunin-hama). Areas east of Hakodate (Esan and other beaches) also draw surfers, as do the lonely strands west of Lake Toya. Sites near Otaru (Zenibako, Shioya, Shiotani) are favored for their convenient location, and lesser-known spots dot the coast northeast of Sapporo. Some beaches are accessible by bus*, which lets you avoid cars and parking fees.
The waves can get quite large after August, which probably accounts for the superstition that your relatives will pull you under if you swim in that season.
A more likely nuisance is territoriality. When hang-fivers say "surf," they're thinking "turf." Waves can get crowded, and outsiders aren't always welcome. One surfing Web site is like the joke you should've been there for: It gives detailed local surf conditions - for the previous day. Such is the cult of those baptized in brine, and it's the same the world over.
If you're a surfer and not just a casual swimmer, you'll be spending some quality time in the water, so you'll want to wear a wet or dry suit except in balmy July and August. These are available online ($150) and for purchase or rental at sporting goods shops*. Bodysurfers move more slowly than board surfers, so they should also pick up a pair of fins to help them keep up with the waves.

WINDSURFING AND SAILING

People say the beauty of skiing is how it unites speed, silence and an immediate experience of nature. The same goes for sailing and windsurfing. Nothing is more splendid than skimming across the water undisturbed by any rattling motor.
The basic principles of sailing may be simple, but the sport is not intuitive. First-timers should sign up for instruction* or go with someone who's sailed before. (To avoid confusion, remember that Japanese call all sailboats yotto, although "yacht" in English refers only to mega-sailboats and fancy powerboats.)
Windsurfing is easier to pick up by yourself. Devotees stand on a board while holding a boom attached to a rotating sail. It requires much less strength to right an overturned windsurfing board than a sailboat.
Otaru's Shioya Beach is popular among windsurfers, as is Ranshima Beach. Try Sunset Beach (Haboro), White Beach (Tomamae), Hamaatsuma Beach (Atsuma-cho, Yufutsu-gun), Lake Toya and Lake Kutcharo.





Over the handlebars (June 2002)
By Vanessa Fortyn

Imagine this: It's about three o'clock in the morning and you're just stumbling out of one of the hundreds of bars in Susukino. Maybe you went to karaoke, or maybe you just finished a nomihodai or two. Anyway, you're feeling pretty merry, but it's time to hit the sack. You find your bicycle and set off homewards. It's a mild summer night, the moon is looking full and the cool air feels refreshing after all those smoky bars. You're cruising along, perhaps thinking about getting a late-night snack, or reliving the most memorable events of the evening, when suddenly a car pulls out in front of you. It all happens so quickly: the squeal of brakes, the dull thud of objects colliding, and the next thing you know you're flying over the hood in slow motion, about to make contact with the unforgiving hardness of the road.
It's so easy to be complacent about cycling in Sapporo: the sidewalks are wide, flat and seemingly bike-friendly. Loads of people ride their bicycles around, so you'd imagine that drivers are more conditioned to the presence of cyclers than in many Western countries. However, in an average year, three thousand cyclers are injured in traffic accidents in Hokkaido, and last year thirty-two were killed on the road. Chances are you know someone who has been in a bike accident, and even if they weren't seriously injured they will verify that the experience is frightening. For non-Japanese, language difficulties and ignorance of police and insurance procedures make the experience a frustrating and humbling one as well.
We don't want to scare you away from cycling: It's convenient, cheap, healthy and fun. But bicycles are not toys. Legally they're in the same vehicle bracket as motorcycles and K cars, and accidents can happen. If you're unfortunate enough to be involved in a traffic accident, it's best to have some idea about what to do.
The first thing you should remember is to stay calm. Hurling torrents of abuse in English may scare away any witnesses, and could alienate, frighten or confuse the driver, whose help you may need if you're injured. If you're hurt, it's a good idea to call a Japanese-speaking friend, or anyone who can come along and offer some support. Traffic accidents should be reported to the police, and hopefully the driver will call the cops. If it's a hit-and-run and there's no-one around to help, you should dial emergency services at 110. The police are able to provide English interpreters. As in many countries, hit-and-run cases are dealt with severely, and if you're injured in such an accident, the Japanese government will indemnify you under the Automobile Liability Security Law.
Most drivers, however, will take responsibility for an accident. Kieran, from Australia, was riding along the side of the road, when a taxi that had drawn up at a traffic light suddenly opened its passenger door. Kieran slammed on his brakes, but was thrown over the door. Luckily, he only suffered bruising, but his bike, and more worryingly, his helmet were damaged. Kieran was angered by his accident, but impressed by how far the driver went to make amends. The driver insisted on immediately replacing the damaged property, even wanting to add extras to Kieran's bike. Furthermore, while Kieran was waiting, the driver rushed off to buy an apologetic box of cakes.
If you're involved in an accident, you should try to write down some details. Take the car registration and ask to see the driver's licence (unten menkyo). Copy the licence number and the driver's name, address and age as it appears on the licence. Also, you should get details of the other party's Jibaiseki Hoken (Compulsory Third-Party Automobile Accident Insurance) and any other insurance they have. Note their insurance company and policy number. Of course it's not always possible to do these things, and when you're in shock or in pain it's difficult to think clearly. One thing you may be able to do, though, is to look around you at the scene of the accident and try to picture what happened. If you can, take notes or make a sketch, it will help when you describe the scene to the police.
The police will interview you and take down all your details. They may draw diagrams of the accident and ask you to verify them later. They will complete an accident report. If there was an injury they will complete a jinshin jiko, (report of injurious accident), and the most responsible party may incur a penalty. This could be a fine, a licence suspension, or in the worst case, imprisonment.
The police are usually meticulous. Chris from Australia was riding on the sidewalk when a turning car nearly crashed into him. He braked hard and was thrown forward onto the pavement. The fall knocked him unconscious and fractured his arm. Chris had to undergo surgery and spend four days in hospital. In his case, he found the police thorough. They measured the scene carefully and created a very clear picture of what happened. After fault had been established, they asked him for his opinion on the kind of penalty the driver should receive. They also asked him to think of ways he could have avoided the accident, which he felt was a good thing as it "encouraged everyone to take some degree of responsibility for their actions."
The police, however, are not involved in claims for compensation. You will have to deal with the driver's insurance provider. Hopefully they will contact you (or your friend or work, if you don't speak Japanese), or your insurance company. However, you may need to contact them, which is why you should have all the driver's details.
If you're seriously injured, you should be taken to hospital. Even if you just feel a bit bruised, it's a good idea to get a medical check-up as soon as possible. What seems like a bruised leg might in fact be a tendon or ligament injury that will need physical therapy. Jibaiseki Hoken will cover a victim's medical expenses and damages for lost time at work, up to a limit. Further expenses including damages to your bike and property you will have to obtain from the driver's insurance company. They will work out what percentage you were at fault and adjust any compensation accordingly. Things like not having a light on your bike if the accident happened at night, or not riding on the left-hand side of the road can affect the insurance decision.
Sue from Australia had positive things to say about the insurance outcome of her traffic accident.
"A taxi hit my old mountain bike and ran over my front wheel. They took my bike for a week, and when they returned it, not only had they replaced the wheel, but also the seat, the pedals, the mud-guards, the bell, and they'd polished up all the chrome. It was like a new bike."
Lauren from New Zealand wasn't as positive about the insurance representative she had to deal with. "He didn't ask me how I was. [Her shoulder had been injured in the accident.] The first thing he said was 'you were riding on the wrong side of the road.'" The insurance company did pay for a replacement bicycle, although she was left to organize and collect the new model.
Of course avoiding an accident is the best case scenario, and you can do so to a certain extent by following some simple bike safety rules. You've probably heard them before, but we're going to tell you them again anyhow because they're so conveniently forgotten. First, make sure your bike is roadworthy. Your brakes should work well, and you should have a bell and a light. The latter is imperative at night, both to see better, and to be more visible to drivers. It's also required by law. Reflective clothing and reflectors also serve to make you more visible. Second, it's a good idea to get a helmet. All those hair products you put in your hair aren't going to protect your noggin' if you crack it against the ground. Remember: head injuries are the number-one cause of all cycling fatalities. Third, don't drink and ride. We don't want to be party-poopers, but bikes are just like other vehicles on the road, and DUI is against the law. Furthermore, drinking slows your reaction time, inhibits your ability to judge distances, and hinders your balance and co-ordination. If you're going out on a bender, you really should leave your bike at home. Finally, and most importantly, ride safe. If you're with your mates, you should ride in single file and you shouldn't try to see how many people you can carry on your bicycle. Blue-and-white bicycling signs show sidewalks that may be used for cyclers. Otherwise you're supposed to stick to the far left-hand side of the road. The law says "bikes shall ride in the carriageway, in principle." What this seems to mean is that riding on the sidewalk isn't really against the law, but remember you should always give way to pedestrians. Even if you choose to ignore all other safety tips, try to avoid running red lights, cutting across streets and riding super fast in heavy traffic areas. Enjoy getting out and about in Sapporo this summer, but do take care on your bicycle.

(Some of the names were changed for this article.)





A Beautiful Excuse - Games and Fun
Touring When your Team Has Won
(Apr. 2002)
by Carey Paterson

You've come halfway around the planet to see football. Football?
"It's not just any old football," you object.
Well, this isn't just any old city: It's an Olympic city, Japan's most agreeable place in June, its top destination for domestic travel. While you're in the neighborhood, don't miss the wonders of Sapporo and its environs.

SAPPORO
If you're short on time, you can combine culture and nature with a visit to Maruyama Park (Tozai Subay Line, Maruyama Koen Sta.). Pleasant for strolls, the park houses Hokkaido Shrine. Japanese spent half a century in what is now Hokkaido before deciding to make the island their own. When they did, they built this shrine. To the south of the park rises Mt. Maruyama, an easy 45-minute climb. From here you'll see the Sea of Japan to the north, forested mountains to the southwest, and Sapporo spreading over the Ishikari Plain to the east. Watch for the dozens of jizo (Buddhist devotional statues) along the trail.
A higher peak is Mt. Moiwa, just to the south. Take the streetcar to Moiwa Iriguchi-mae and ask for a ropeway discount ("rohpu-uei waribikiken kudasai" in Japanese) as you're getting off. The cable car will take you to the top, or you can hike up in an hour. This summit gives you a better idea of the vast wilds to the southwest, a wilderness where grizzlies roam. Both peaks are modest, between 400 and 500 meters in elevation. The real mountains - Tenguyama, Sapporo-dake, Muine-dake - are farther southwest and are described in "Hokkaido Trekking and Onsen Guide" available (for \400) at Plaza i (MN Bldg., 1F, N1W2).
If you find yourself at Plaza i, you'll want to pop across the street to the east to see the Sapporo Clock Tower. It's not spectacular, but it is a nationwide symbol of Meiji-era (1868 - 1912) modernization. The building was a martial arts training hall for Hokkaido Agricultural College (now Hokkaido University), back when they studied the three R's of reading, writing and repelling Russians. Inside you'll find photos of old Sapporo and some taxidermic specimens.
June in Sapporo is too splendid not to spend outdoors, and Odori Park, smack in the middle of downtown, is just the place for picnicking and people watching. Buy lunch on the basement food floor of Marui Imai (Odori W2) or Mitsukoshi department store (S1W3) and enjoy the Odori buskers. (Avoid the Nijo Ichiba market (S3E1). It's a tourist trap.)
Nakajima Park (Nanboku Subway Line, Nakajima-koen Sta.) is less of a sunbather's paradise than Odori, but it offers and pond with boating (600 yen per hour) and some cultural points of interest: the Hasso-an Japanese teahouse, and Hoheikan, a stately Western guesthouse from the Meiji era with an adjoining Japanese garden. A ten-minute walk south will bring you to the Toyohira River, where students and families laze the weekend away. Horohira Bridge here features an arch from which you can gaze upstream toward the mountainous headwaters.
You may be surprised to find hot springs in the middle of the city, but find them you will. Jasmac Plaza (S7 W3) welcomes day bathers (\2,500). Spa Safuro (S6 W5, \1,800) is a bath and not a true hot spring, but it's soothing all the same and open around the clock.
Hokkaidoans are such incurable nature lovers that even their museums are parks. Sapporo Art Park (admission to the park is free, to the open-air sculpture museum costs \600) is an otherworld of outdoor sculpture in the verdant hills 45 minutes south of the city (Nanboku Subway Line to Makomanai Sta., then bus to Geijutsu-no-mori). Summers feature special exhibitions and crafts markets. Save the downtown museums for a rainy day: The Art Park is where you want to be on a June afternoon.
If you're lucky enough to have a ride, you'll find two other pleasant spots farther south on National Route 453. Takino Reien is a cemetery with replicas of Stonehenge, Easter Island moai and other mysterious statuary. Picnickers are welcome, but remember this is a cemetery. Five minutes more brings you to Takino Park. Taki means waterfall, and there are several cascades to tempt trekkers.

OTARU / SHAKOTAN
Otaru, 30 minutes west of Sapporo by rail, offers the romance of a port town and sushi that rivals the best in Sapporo at half the price. Steer clear of Sushi-dori (sushi street), where it's hit or miss. Instead, ask a local or your hotel for a dining recommendation. You'll also find a glass crafts district near the romantic gaslit canals. Most of the hot springs here welcome foreigners. Some do not. There is a vast shopping center, MYCAL Otaru, at JR Otaru Chikuko Sta.
West of Otaru is Otamoi Beach, a rocky seaside retreat. The beach is accessible only by car (there is a nominal parking fee) and is difficult to find. Ask for a map at the tourist office beside JR Otaru Sta. The reward is azure water and rocks from which you can jump into the sea. (Go just beyond the beach area.) Otamoi was once a bustling seaside resort, as you can see in a photo along the path near the parking lot. This path follows the spectacular cliffs; the other path leads down to the beach. Look for sea urchin fishermen peering through glass contraptions in their hunt for this Hokkaido delicacy. West of Otaru, the road traces the Shakotan Penisula to Cape Kamui and beyond.

JOZANKEI / LAKE SHIKOTSU
Sapporo and Otaru have their urban hot springs, but the true hot spring experience is an al fresco bath in the mountains. Jozankei, an hour southwest of downtown, is the epitome of a Japanese hot spring resort. Unfortunately, this means there are some megahotels. For more seclusion, try Hoheikyo Onsen (no overnight accomodation; 10 a.m. - midnight; \1,000), five minutes west of Jozankei proper. Lake Shikotsu, 90 minutes by car south of Sapporo, is even more untouched. Here, Marukoma Onsen is recommended for its outdoor bath and friendly atmosphere.
For a cultural experience of a different sort, explore any of the numerous convenience stores or supermarkets (try the basement of Robinsons (S4W4)). Shoppers will find boutiques and department stores along Eki-mae St. between JR Sapporo Sta. and Susukino. If you still have energy, visit Sapporo Factory a large indoor shopping complex at N2 E4.





Don't be a Tourist
Residents need to get the buzz
(Apr. 2002)
by Danny Lamont

How to get the best of Hokkaido? Realize how little you know about what's going on.
As a foreigner in Japan, information doesn't find you: You have to find it. Hokkaido, has lots happening - loads of great deals and things to do, fantastic and unusual events and festivals. But unless you're proactive in finding out about them, you may well not hear about them until it's too late. You know when you tell people about something good you've done or been to, they often say, "Wish I'd heard about that" I would love to have gone "How did you find out about it?" People often say it to me, and I've said the same thing too many times myself.
But once you understand the ways that foreigners miss out, you can help make sure that you don't. If you think that most of Hokkaido's festivals are listed in your guidebook, you're mistaken. Your guidebook barely scratches the surface. For all sorts of events, the tourist information centre under Sapporo International Communication Plaza (Plaza i, MN Building, 1F, North 1 West 3) and that at JR Sapporo Station (North Exit) are the best sources of information. They have a free guide (in Japanese, though) to all the festivals in Hokkaido. There are hundreds more than the ones you usually hear about.
Not fully understanding information in the media means that loads of stuff goes over your head unnoticed. Take Hot Pepper for example, a free paper targeted to Japanese women office workers and available at several convenience store chains. Most foreigners new to Sapporo either don't know it exists, or can't read it. But if you like cheap all-you-can-eat and -drink deals, it's a must. Get a friend who can read Japanese to point out the best deals in it for you, and you'll be able to start regretting how much you drank the night before, instead of how much you spent.
The other day, I heard about a shop in the Tanuki Koji shopping arcade that sells cheap phone cards. I headed down there and found that you can buy ´500 phone cards for only ´400 there, as well as discounted subway and rail tickets. Was I delighted at my discovery? No. I couldn't help thinking about all the pocketfuls of full-price phone cards I've used in the last two years!
Oh well, I guess if I'd taken the initiative to explore Tanuki Koji or to ask someone earlier, I might have found out sooner. A famous English football team manager put it best when asked about a lucky win. He said, "You make your own luck." This is never truer than in Japan. I've often found that checking the message board at the International Plaza or striking up a conversation with someone I didn't know has led to something special. I've taken part in snowball-fight tournaments and free sakˇ tastings, been to rock and dance music festivals, and found accommodation, English teaching jobs and movie extra work these ways.
There's a lot of information out there sitting in people's heads or on pieces of paper. Seek and ye shall find! And the next time you find out something good, you'll be able to use a discount phone card to tell someone.