Japan's Unique Autumn? - Other countries
enjoy fall, too (Aug., 2002, #29)
By Carey Paterson
L ike native peoples everywhere, the Algonquin Indians of North America
used legend to explain the natural world. The most dramatic phenomenon they
had to account for was autumn's explosion of crimson. The Algonguins believed
the forests had been stained red when hunters wounded the Great Bear in
autumn, an event the trees commemorate in their foliage. Biologists have
a different explanation. They know that leaves change when the green pigments
fade and the yellows, which have been there since spring, become visible.
As if realizing each year that less is more, nature subtracts accordingly.
In some species, these yellows then metamorphose into the bloody reds of
Algonquin legend.
What triggers these changes? If you said the cold, you'd be wrong. In fact,
it's the length of night. As the days grow shorter, the lengthening night
causes the production of chlorophyll - the green pigment - to slow and then
stop. The timing of this change is determined more by a tree's species than
by its environment. Trees turn first in the mountains not because of where
they are, but because of what they are: alpine species. If you grow a mountain
species at sea level, it will turn roughly in synch with its alpine kin.
Not that weather is irrelevant. Warm sunny days followed by crisp, cool
nights produce the most vivid colors: The sun promotes sugar generation
and the cold shuts the veins leading to the tree. The more sugars are trapped,
the stronger are the colors. In Hokkaido, the front of changing hues starts
in September and progresses through the island's three plant zones, from
alpine in the middle of Hokkaido, to sub-alpine in the north and middle,
and finally to the cool temperate zone in the south and west.
Shedding all those leaves every year may seem like a waste, but it's not.
It helps the tree avoid snow damage and prevents the loss of moisture that
happens when leaves exchange gasses with the air. Think of a leafless tree
as holding its breath until spring.
In tropical forests, the leaves fall gradually throughout the year rather
than all at once. No dramatic rush of colors there. Evergreens do the same,
constantly losing and re-growing their needles, which last two or three
years before being shed. For dramatic autumn colors, you have to go where
there are deciduous broadleaf trees, and Japan is just such a place. Other
areas include the Eastern U.S., the Rocky Mountains, southeastern Canada,
southwest Europe and elsewhere in East Asia.
Japan has a particularly deep tradition of appreciating fall foliage. The
practice of momiji-gari, or "searching for red leaves," is as
old as Japan, or perhaps even older. The word derives from momizu ("to
dye red"), and gari ("hunting"), although over the centuries,
momizu has changed to momiji, or "maple." In the courtly Heian
era, one thousand years ago, momiji-gari was one of the most eagerly anticipated
events of the year. Kimono-clad nature lovers swapped verse while enjoying
the scenery. As with many traditional Japanese festivals, it was also an
excuse for drunken revels, although that tradition is more faithfully preserved
in cherry-blossom viewing. Hokkaidoans today travel to hot springs throughout
the prefecture to enjoy fall, particularly to Jozankei, Hoheikyo Dam, the
Daisetsuzan Mountains, Biei, Lake Akan, Shiretoko Toge, Lake Mashu, Niseko,
Lake Hangetsu, Lake Onuma - pretty much anywhere there is a hot spring.
(See Xene Picks, p. 6.)
Commentators on Japan have been quick to emphasize the cultural significance
of autumn.
There are two particularly expressive words that are intimately associated
with fall: sabishi and shinmiri...The first of these words means "loneliness"
plus a type of "emptiness" which is used to describe the feeling
that often assails the more sensitive Japanese with the coming of the
first signs of fall...Shinmiri...refers to a type of atmosphere that is
charged with intimate tranquility and sad contentment which is characteristic
of Japan's traditional lifestyle. (Boye De Mente, Discovering Cultural
Japan)
Autumn leaves, called kouyou in Japanese, have featured prominently
in every Japanese art and craft, with the possible exception of sword
making. You can find them embroidered on kimono, painted on folding screens
and lacquer ware, and highlighted in poetry, prose and drama. They are
appreciated for more than just their beauty, however. They also serve
as a metaphor for fullness and mortality. In haiku, the moon, the autumn
wind, frost, cicadas, chestnuts, chrysanthemums, wild yams, and matsutake
mushrooms are just a few of the many seasonal keywords used to conjure
up fall and its connotations of completion and finality.
However formalized the tradition of autumn appreciation may be in Japan,
it would be too much to describe it as a distinguishing feature of Japanese
culture. Wherever the leaves turn, people have revered autumn and have
drawn the same metaphors. Look at lines from Autumn, by Henry Wadsworth
Longfellow, an American:
O what a glory doth this world put on
For him who, with a fervent heart, goes forth
Under the bright and glorious sky, and looks
On duties well performed, and days well spent!
For him the wind, ay, and the yellow leaves,
Shall have a voice, and give him eloquent teachings.
Compare this with haikuist Matsuo Basho:
not to think of yourself
as someone who did not count --
Festival of the Souls
Not identical sentiments, but the poets are certainly on the same page.
Now consider this from Autumn by A.S. Pushkin, a Russian:
A crimson glow still flits across her face.
Today she lives, tomorrow she is gone.
And Basho again:
soon to die
yet no sign of it
in the cicada's chirp
From reading these verses, it should be no surprise that people in other
countries appreciate viewing the autumn colors. Just ask the Algonquins.
Or ask the State of Wisconsin, which reports that fall-color tourists
add more than $1 billion to the local economy. That's a lot of appreciation.
GETTING INTO AUTUMN (Aug., 2002, #29)
By Allyson Ashfield
Summer-lovers out there know that the coming of autumn heralds the arrival
of winter. Before you resign yourselves to curling up under the kotatsu
and watching videos or propping up a bar until the rays of the sun blast
forth, why not get into the change of seasons by going hiking?
Hiking isn't just for Olympic athletes, nor does it mean scaling a mountain
with a 90-degree face. It's about being outdoors, enjoying the scenery,
leaving towns and cities behind and reflecting on the day while sitting
in an onsen. After all, most of Japan is mountainous, so why ignore it?
Autumn brings spectacular scenery and breathtaking views. So come on,
get out there and enjoy it.
Having decided to put on your sturdy waterproof boots and hit the trails,
what else are you going to take? It's a good idea to have a tough rucksack
with a waist strap to distribute the weight, a waterproof jacket and trousers,
water, food (onigiri is good), warm foul-weather clothing including gloves
and a hat (not cotton, which loses its warmth once wet). Having a mobile
phone for emergencies and a whistle to attract attention is a good idea.
Around Kita-juni-jo Subway Station you'll find several good places to
get gear: ICI Sports (pronounced "Ishii Sports"), Shugakuso
and Patagonia.
Now that you've got your gear together, where are you going to go? Are
you going to do a day hike, or an overnight hike? Near where you live,
or farther afield? The good thing about Japan is the fantastic public
transport system, which lets you get to most places with a little time
and patience. You can even get English information about buses at the
East Exit of JR Sapporo Station.
Japan also has a great system of mountain huts, due to the numbers of
hikers and the popularity of yama ski (backcountry skiing). These make
it possible for you to overnight without lugging lots of gear. The huts
are basic shelters and not luxurious hotels, so you do need to bring a
sleeping bag and mat, food, a cooking stove, gas and drinking water.
Now for a friendly word of warning. Always make sure to boil water from
rivers in Hokkaido; otherwise, you could find yourself playing host to
the deadly parasitic tapeworm larvae of Echinococcus. Incubation can take
years, and once detected it's too late: The larvae destroys the liver
of the host. Don't let this put you off hiking. For shorter hikes, carrying
your water is not a problem, and if you're using a hut you can leave any
water you won't need. With all that in mind, let's check out some mountains.
In the Sapporo area there are plenty of hikes within a bus ride of the
city. A good hike with various options is Soranuma-dake ("sky pond
mountain"). Take the bus from Makomanai Subway Station to Soranuma
Tozan Guchi, the last stop. It's in what looks like part of a quarry.
Follow the signs through the "quarry" to the trailhead (tozan
guchi).
From the tozan guchi the trail meanders upwards, passing through forests
and by small mountain ponds (numa). There are two mountain huts near Aonuma,
the first pond. One was shuttered up when I was last there (perhaps it's
the hut of a university or mountain club), but the newer and bigger one
is open and accessible to all for a nominal fee for upkeep. From the huts
proceed upward, passing Bankei Pond, which is to the right of the trail,
and moving on to the summit (1,249 m). As you reach the ridge, be careful
to go left at the fork, unless you want to traverse to Sapporo-dake and
come out near Jozankei, six hours away. The summit offers views of the
Pacific Ocean, the Sea of Japan, the Ishikari Plain, and the higher peaks
southwest of Sapporo.
The hike to the huts takes about two hours, making this an ideal overnight
hike. You could start later in the day and stop at the hut for the night,
proceeding on to the summit (a further two hours away) the next day, soaking
up the autumnal scenery and views of Mt. Yotei, Hokkaido's very own Fuji,
at the summit, and descending later in the day. Alternatively you could
leave early in the morning, drop off your overnight gear at the hut on
the way to the summit, spend the night in the hut on the way down, and
have a leisurely hike back to the bus stop the next day. Check the bus
schedule carefully, as this is not a major route and weekends tend to
have a different schedule. You could also get a bus to Soranuma Futamata
and walk about thirty minutes to the trailhead.
Another good one-day hike out of Sapporo is Kamui-dake. From the bus terminal
at JR Sapporo Station or from Makomanai Subway Station, take Jotetsu Bus
to Jozankei and get off at Hyakumatsu-bashi. The trail starts on the side
of the bridge opposite the bus stop. In the small wooden hut is a climber's
registration book. It's a good idea to fill in your details -- name, address,
number of people you're hiking with and start time -- so that if anything
happens people know where you are. That said, I'm not sure who those people
would be or when they might check, but it's better than nothing.
The trail traverses forests and passes through an open area called Ganbodai
before reaching a rocky tabletop, the summit (983 m). It offers great
views of the surrounding mountains and is a perfect place to sit, eat
lunch and have a beer. The trail leads on to the adjoining Eboshi-dake,
but it was virtually impassable the last time I was there and didn't look
like a whole heap of fun. Better to head down and catch the bus back to
Sapporo, or if you've got time, why not go just up the road to Jozankei
for an onsen bath. The hike should take about five hours.
Farther afield is Asahi-dake ("sunrise mountain": 2,290.3 m)
the highest mountain in Hokkaido and one of the most spectacular, especially
in autumn. The good news is that if you don't fancy hiking up from the
trailhead, there is a cable car (ropeway) costing about 1,500 yen. This
takes you a good portion of the way up, leaving you with about a two-
to three-hour hike to the summit. You don't even have to go all the way
to the top to enjoy the scenery and really feel like you're in the mountains.
You can just walk around at the cable car station and drink in your fill.
If you decide to go to the summit, you'll find a steep climb from the
cable car station that passes steaming sulphur vents, Sugatami-ike ("mirror
pond"), the Asahi-dake mountain hut, and great spots overlooking
the mountains of Daisetsuzan National Park. Slightly easier but equally
rewarding is to hike up from the trailhead to the top cable car station,
which should take about two to three hours.
Getting there is pretty easy. From JR Asahikawa Station, you can take
Asahikawa Denki Kido Bus to the cable car station. The good news is that
if you spend more than 2,000 yen at the cable car station and keep your
receipts, the return bus is free. If you feel like staying overnight there's
the mountain hut about a thirty-minute walk from the top cable car station
or, near the bottom station, there is Asahi-dake Youth Hostel (a recently
rebuilt wooden building) and a plethora of hotels and lodgings nestled
together. There is also a campsite for those of you with tents. A visit
to the Asahi-dake Visitors Centre is a good idea, as it has lots of maps
and information, mostly in Japanese.
Niseko, southwest of Sapporo, is another area with many hiking trails
and great views. It is home to several famous ski resorts collectively
known as Niseko, although that name more accurately belongs to one small
town to the west of the resort and its neighbouring mountain. Trains do
run directly to Niseko from Sapporo and Hakodate, but these are not frequent,
so check the schedules carefully. The start point for most hikes is Niseko-yama-no-ie,
which is at Goshiki Onsen fifteen kilometres away. It is possible to get
a bus from JR Niseko Station to Niseko-yama-no-ie, about a one-hour ride.
Again check bus times carefully so you're not hanging around for ages.
You could stay instead at Niseko Annupuri Youth Hostel and head off hiking
the next day. Take the bus to Konbu Onsen, and after about twenty minutes
get off at Niseko Annupuri Kokusai Ski Resort. The manager of the hostel
has a good reputation and may even pick you up from Niseko if you call
in advance.
From Goshiki Onsen there are various hikes including the Niseko Circuit.
This is a seven-hour hike starting from the carpark and toilets on the
main road. Follow the path over the bridge and up the manmade steps to
the registration book. From here follow the trail, which is marked with
pink stripes of tape or arrows spray-painted on rocks. Do the circuit
anticlockwise, going towards Nitonupuri at the fork. The trail winds uphill
to the rocky summit (1,080 m) and then descends to the road. Crossing
the road, continue up to the summit of Chisenupuri (1,134 m) and then
down to Chonuma, a big mountain pond that will be to your right and is
an ideal place for a lunch break. Continue on the trail, re-crossing the
road and passing through O-yachi, a marshland of wildflowers, until you
come to O-numa on your right. This is another ideal place for a break
and some food. The final part of the trail takes you through old sulphur
mines and back to the fork. From here retrace your steps from the morning
back to the carpark.
If you decide to do any of these hikes, I hope you enjoy them. Before
you head out, get as much information as you can about where you're going,
including maps. Good sources are The Lonely Planet Guide to Hiking in
Japan, and Hokkaido Trekking and Onsen Guide published by the Sapporo
International Communication Plaza Foundation. The latter guide is in English
and Japanese, and costs about 400 yen.
A final word of warning before you're on your own. Hokkaido is home to
the higuma, the Hokkaido brown bear. Although rarely seen by hikers on
popular trails, they are alive and out there. Japanese hikers carry a
bell to reduce the element of surprise, and encounters are rare. In all
my hiking in Hokkaido, the closest I've ever come to the higuma is a mighty
roar, which sounded like a lion, up a valley in the Daizetsuzan Mountains.
Having said that, whilst hiking in the Hidaka Mountains last summer, a
friend of mine popped behind a car at the trailhead for a quick pee, only
to find a large pile of fresh bear poo.
To the Sea!
Three oceans for marine sports lovers (June 2002)
By Carey Paterson
Dream Beach, and the Atka mackerel are running. Anglers reel in the fish,
and Japanese sail and windsurf. If this doesn't strike you as strange,
it should: This was back in May, and the water was zero Centigrade. Most
Hokkaidoans don't go anywhere near the ocean until July.
We should. There's not a Dosanko on this island more than a couple of
hours from the sea - or seas, since we have a choice of three. Locals
say you can only swim the six weeks from July to mid-August, that after
the Obon holidays you'll be savaged by killer jellyfish, swamped by titanic
waves, or dragged under by ghosts. You can tell them this from me: Masaka!
Or, as we say in English, What are you on about?
Any ocean-lover worth his salt knows the Hokkaido seas are swimmable from
late June to late September, that a wet suit buys you another month at
each end, that you have five splendid months to windsurf, body-board,
bodysurf, surf, sail, sea kayak.... You get the picture.
THE SURFING TRINITY
Surfing comes in three varieties: traditional surfing, body-boarding and
bodysurfing. The difference is where you are in the water. Surfers aren't:
They stand balanced on their board. Body-boarders ride face down on a
shorter board, and bodysurfers go boardless altogether, buoyed only by
the sea.
The best surfing spots tend to be on the wavier Pacific side of Hokkaido,
particularly around Tomakomai (Hama-Atsuma, Yufutsu, Shiraoi Gyoko). Erimo
is more remote, but its windy, exposed coast promises pounding waves (Hyakunin-hama).
Areas east of Hakodate (Esan and other beaches) also draw surfers, as
do the lonely strands west of Lake Toya. Sites near Otaru (Zenibako, Shioya,
Shiotani) are favored for their convenient location, and lesser-known
spots dot the coast northeast of Sapporo. Some beaches are accessible
by bus*, which lets you avoid cars and parking fees.
The waves can get quite large after August, which probably accounts for
the superstition that your relatives will pull you under if you swim in
that season.
A more likely nuisance is territoriality. When hang-fivers say "surf,"
they're thinking "turf." Waves can get crowded, and outsiders
aren't always welcome. One surfing Web site is like the joke you should've
been there for: It gives detailed local surf conditions - for the previous
day. Such is the cult of those baptized in brine, and it's the same the
world over.
If you're a surfer and not just a casual swimmer, you'll be spending some
quality time in the water, so you'll want to wear a wet or dry suit except
in balmy July and August. These are available online ($150) and for purchase
or rental at sporting goods shops*. Bodysurfers move more slowly than
board surfers, so they should also pick up a pair of fins to help them
keep up with the waves.
WINDSURFING AND SAILING
People say the beauty of skiing is how it unites speed, silence and an immediate
experience of nature. The same goes for sailing and windsurfing. Nothing
is more splendid than skimming across the water undisturbed by any rattling
motor.
The basic principles of sailing may be simple, but the sport is not intuitive.
First-timers should sign up for instruction* or go with someone who's sailed
before. (To avoid confusion, remember that Japanese call all sailboats yotto,
although "yacht" in English refers only to mega-sailboats and
fancy powerboats.)
Windsurfing is easier to pick up by yourself. Devotees stand on a board
while holding a boom attached to a rotating sail. It requires much less
strength to right an overturned windsurfing board than a sailboat.
Otaru's Shioya Beach is popular among windsurfers, as is Ranshima Beach.
Try Sunset Beach (Haboro), White Beach (Tomamae), Hamaatsuma Beach (Atsuma-cho,
Yufutsu-gun), Lake Toya and Lake Kutcharo.
Over the handlebars
(June 2002)
By Vanessa Fortyn
Imagine this: It's about three o'clock in the morning and you're just stumbling
out of one of the hundreds of bars in Susukino. Maybe you went to karaoke,
or maybe you just finished a nomihodai or two. Anyway, you're feeling
pretty merry, but it's time to hit the sack. You find your bicycle and set
off homewards. It's a mild summer night, the moon is looking full and the
cool air feels refreshing after all those smoky bars. You're cruising along,
perhaps thinking about getting a late-night snack, or reliving the most
memorable events of the evening, when suddenly a car pulls out in front
of you. It all happens so quickly: the squeal of brakes, the dull thud of
objects colliding, and the next thing you know you're flying over the hood
in slow motion, about to make contact with the unforgiving hardness of the
road.
It's so easy to be complacent about cycling in Sapporo: the sidewalks are
wide, flat and seemingly bike-friendly. Loads of people ride their bicycles
around, so you'd imagine that drivers are more conditioned to the presence
of cyclers than in many Western countries. However, in an average year,
three thousand cyclers are injured in traffic accidents in Hokkaido, and
last year thirty-two were killed on the road. Chances are you know someone
who has been in a bike accident, and even if they weren't seriously injured
they will verify that the experience is frightening. For non-Japanese, language
difficulties and ignorance of police and insurance procedures make the experience
a frustrating and humbling one as well.
We don't want to scare you away from cycling: It's convenient, cheap, healthy
and fun. But bicycles are not toys. Legally they're in the same vehicle
bracket as motorcycles and K cars, and accidents can happen. If you're unfortunate
enough to be involved in a traffic accident, it's best to have some idea
about what to do.
The first thing you should remember is to stay calm. Hurling torrents of
abuse in English may scare away any witnesses, and could alienate, frighten
or confuse the driver, whose help you may need if you're injured. If you're
hurt, it's a good idea to call a Japanese-speaking friend, or anyone who
can come along and offer some support. Traffic accidents should be reported
to the police, and hopefully the driver will call the cops. If it's a hit-and-run
and there's no-one around to help, you should dial emergency services at
110. The police are able to provide English interpreters. As in many countries,
hit-and-run cases are dealt with severely, and if you're injured in such
an accident, the Japanese government will indemnify you under the Automobile
Liability Security Law.
Most drivers, however, will take responsibility for an accident. Kieran,
from Australia, was riding along the side of the road, when a taxi that
had drawn up at a traffic light suddenly opened its passenger door. Kieran
slammed on his brakes, but was thrown over the door. Luckily, he only suffered
bruising, but his bike, and more worryingly, his helmet were damaged. Kieran
was angered by his accident, but impressed by how far the driver went to
make amends. The driver insisted on immediately replacing the damaged property,
even wanting to add extras to Kieran's bike. Furthermore, while Kieran was
waiting, the driver rushed off to buy an apologetic box of cakes.
If you're involved in an accident, you should try to write down some details.
Take the car registration and ask to see the driver's licence (unten
menkyo). Copy the licence number and the driver's name, address and
age as it appears on the licence. Also, you should get details of the other
party's Jibaiseki Hoken (Compulsory Third-Party Automobile Accident Insurance)
and any other insurance they have. Note their insurance company and policy
number. Of course it's not always possible to do these things, and when
you're in shock or in pain it's difficult to think clearly. One thing you
may be able to do, though, is to look around you at the scene of the accident
and try to picture what happened. If you can, take notes or make a sketch,
it will help when you describe the scene to the police.
The police will interview you and take down all your details. They may draw
diagrams of the accident and ask you to verify them later. They will complete
an accident report. If there was an injury they will complete a jinshin
jiko, (report of injurious accident), and the most responsible party
may incur a penalty. This could be a fine, a licence suspension, or in the
worst case, imprisonment.
The police are usually meticulous. Chris from Australia was riding on the
sidewalk when a turning car nearly crashed into him. He braked hard and
was thrown forward onto the pavement. The fall knocked him unconscious and
fractured his arm. Chris had to undergo surgery and spend four days in hospital.
In his case, he found the police thorough. They measured the scene carefully
and created a very clear picture of what happened. After fault had been
established, they asked him for his opinion on the kind of penalty the driver
should receive. They also asked him to think of ways he could have avoided
the accident, which he felt was a good thing as it "encouraged everyone
to take some degree of responsibility for their actions."
The police, however, are not involved in claims for compensation. You will
have to deal with the driver's insurance provider. Hopefully they will contact
you (or your friend or work, if you don't speak Japanese), or your insurance
company. However, you may need to contact them, which is why you should
have all the driver's details.
If you're seriously injured, you should be taken to hospital. Even if you
just feel a bit bruised, it's a good idea to get a medical check-up as soon
as possible. What seems like a bruised leg might in fact be a tendon or
ligament injury that will need physical therapy. Jibaiseki Hoken will cover
a victim's medical expenses and damages for lost time at work, up to a limit.
Further expenses including damages to your bike and property you will have
to obtain from the driver's insurance company. They will work out what percentage
you were at fault and adjust any compensation accordingly. Things like not
having a light on your bike if the accident happened at night, or not riding
on the left-hand side of the road can affect the insurance decision.
Sue from Australia had positive things to say about the insurance outcome
of her traffic accident.
"A taxi hit my old mountain bike and ran over my front wheel. They
took my bike for a week, and when they returned it, not only had they replaced
the wheel, but also the seat, the pedals, the mud-guards, the bell, and
they'd polished up all the chrome. It was like a new bike."
Lauren from New Zealand wasn't as positive about the insurance representative
she had to deal with. "He didn't ask me how I was. [Her shoulder had
been injured in the accident.] The first thing he said was 'you were riding
on the wrong side of the road.'" The insurance company did pay for
a replacement bicycle, although she was left to organize and collect the
new model.
Of course avoiding an accident is the best case scenario, and you can do
so to a certain extent by following some simple bike safety rules. You've
probably heard them before, but we're going to tell you them again anyhow
because they're so conveniently forgotten. First, make sure your bike is
roadworthy. Your brakes should work well, and you should have a bell and
a light. The latter is imperative at night, both to see better, and to be
more visible to drivers. It's also required by law. Reflective clothing
and reflectors also serve to make you more visible. Second, it's a good
idea to get a helmet. All those hair products you put in your hair aren't
going to protect your noggin' if you crack it against the ground. Remember:
head injuries are the number-one cause of all cycling fatalities. Third,
don't drink and ride. We don't want to be party-poopers, but bikes are just
like other vehicles on the road, and DUI is against the law. Furthermore,
drinking slows your reaction time, inhibits your ability to judge distances,
and hinders your balance and co-ordination. If you're going out on a bender,
you really should leave your bike at home. Finally, and most importantly,
ride safe. If you're with your mates, you should ride in single file and
you shouldn't try to see how many people you can carry on your bicycle.
Blue-and-white bicycling signs show sidewalks that may be used for cyclers.
Otherwise you're supposed to stick to the far left-hand side of the road.
The law says "bikes shall ride in the carriageway, in principle."
What this seems to mean is that riding on the sidewalk isn't really against
the law, but remember you should always give way to pedestrians. Even if
you choose to ignore all other safety tips, try to avoid running red lights,
cutting across streets and riding super fast in heavy traffic areas. Enjoy
getting out and about in Sapporo this summer, but do take care on your bicycle.
(Some of the names were changed for this article.)
A Beautiful Excuse - Games and Fun
Touring When your Team Has Won (Apr. 2002)
by Carey Paterson
You've come halfway around the planet to see football. Football?
"It's not just any old football," you object.
Well, this isn't just any old city: It's an Olympic city, Japan's most
agreeable place in June, its top destination for domestic travel. While
you're in the neighborhood, don't miss the wonders of Sapporo and its
environs.
SAPPORO
If you're short on time, you can combine culture and nature with a visit
to Maruyama Park (Tozai Subay Line, Maruyama Koen Sta.). Pleasant for
strolls, the park houses Hokkaido Shrine. Japanese spent half a century
in what is now Hokkaido before deciding to make the island their own.
When they did, they built this shrine. To the south of the park rises
Mt. Maruyama, an easy 45-minute climb. From here you'll see the Sea of
Japan to the north, forested mountains to the southwest, and Sapporo spreading
over the Ishikari Plain to the east. Watch for the dozens of jizo (Buddhist
devotional statues) along the trail.
A higher peak is Mt. Moiwa, just to the south. Take the streetcar to Moiwa
Iriguchi-mae and ask for a ropeway discount ("rohpu-uei waribikiken
kudasai" in Japanese) as you're getting off. The cable car will take
you to the top, or you can hike up in an hour. This summit gives you a
better idea of the vast wilds to the southwest, a wilderness where grizzlies
roam. Both peaks are modest, between 400 and 500 meters in elevation.
The real mountains - Tenguyama, Sapporo-dake, Muine-dake - are farther
southwest and are described in "Hokkaido Trekking and Onsen Guide"
available (for \400) at Plaza i (MN Bldg., 1F, N1W2).
If you find yourself at Plaza i, you'll want to pop across the street
to the east to see the Sapporo Clock Tower. It's not spectacular, but
it is a nationwide symbol of Meiji-era (1868 - 1912) modernization. The
building was a martial arts training hall for Hokkaido Agricultural College
(now Hokkaido University), back when they studied the three R's of reading,
writing and repelling Russians. Inside you'll find photos of old Sapporo
and some taxidermic specimens.
June in Sapporo is too splendid not to spend outdoors, and Odori Park,
smack in the middle of downtown, is just the place for picnicking and
people watching. Buy lunch on the basement food floor of Marui Imai (Odori
W2) or Mitsukoshi department store (S1W3) and enjoy the Odori buskers.
(Avoid the Nijo Ichiba market (S3E1). It's a tourist trap.)
Nakajima Park (Nanboku Subway Line, Nakajima-koen Sta.) is less of a sunbather's
paradise than Odori, but it offers and pond with boating (600 yen per
hour) and some cultural points of interest: the Hasso-an Japanese teahouse,
and Hoheikan, a stately Western guesthouse from the Meiji era with an
adjoining Japanese garden. A ten-minute walk south will bring you to the
Toyohira River, where students and families laze the weekend away. Horohira
Bridge here features an arch from which you can gaze upstream toward the
mountainous headwaters.
You may be surprised to find hot springs in the middle of the city, but
find them you will. Jasmac Plaza (S7 W3) welcomes day bathers (\2,500).
Spa Safuro (S6 W5, \1,800) is a bath and not a true hot spring, but it's
soothing all the same and open around the clock.
Hokkaidoans are such incurable nature lovers that even their museums are
parks. Sapporo Art Park (admission to the park is free, to the open-air
sculpture museum costs \600) is an otherworld of outdoor sculpture in
the verdant hills 45 minutes south of the city (Nanboku Subway Line to
Makomanai Sta., then bus to Geijutsu-no-mori). Summers feature special
exhibitions and crafts markets. Save the downtown museums for a rainy
day: The Art Park is where you want to be on a June afternoon.
If you're lucky enough to have a ride, you'll find two other pleasant
spots farther south on National Route 453. Takino Reien is a cemetery
with replicas of Stonehenge, Easter Island moai and other mysterious statuary.
Picnickers are welcome, but remember this is a cemetery. Five minutes
more brings you to Takino Park. Taki means waterfall, and there are several
cascades to tempt trekkers.
OTARU / SHAKOTAN
Otaru, 30 minutes west of Sapporo by rail, offers the romance of a port
town and sushi that rivals the best in Sapporo at half the price. Steer
clear of Sushi-dori (sushi street), where it's hit or miss. Instead, ask
a local or your hotel for a dining recommendation. You'll also find a
glass crafts district near the romantic gaslit canals. Most of the hot
springs here welcome foreigners. Some do not. There is a vast shopping
center, MYCAL Otaru, at JR Otaru Chikuko Sta.
West of Otaru is Otamoi Beach, a rocky seaside retreat. The beach is accessible
only by car (there is a nominal parking fee) and is difficult to find.
Ask for a map at the tourist office beside JR Otaru Sta. The reward is
azure water and rocks from which you can jump into the sea. (Go just beyond
the beach area.) Otamoi was once a bustling seaside resort, as you can
see in a photo along the path near the parking lot. This path follows
the spectacular cliffs; the other path leads down to the beach. Look for
sea urchin fishermen peering through glass contraptions in their hunt
for this Hokkaido delicacy. West of Otaru, the road traces the Shakotan
Penisula to Cape Kamui and beyond.
JOZANKEI / LAKE SHIKOTSU
Sapporo and Otaru have their urban hot springs, but the true hot spring
experience is an al fresco bath in the mountains. Jozankei, an hour southwest
of downtown, is the epitome of a Japanese hot spring resort. Unfortunately,
this means there are some megahotels. For more seclusion, try Hoheikyo
Onsen (no overnight accomodation; 10 a.m. - midnight; \1,000), five minutes
west of Jozankei proper. Lake Shikotsu, 90 minutes by car south of Sapporo,
is even more untouched. Here, Marukoma Onsen is recommended for its outdoor
bath and friendly atmosphere.
For a cultural experience of a different sort, explore any of the numerous
convenience stores or supermarkets (try the basement of Robinsons (S4W4)).
Shoppers will find boutiques and department stores along Eki-mae St. between
JR Sapporo Sta. and Susukino. If you still have energy, visit Sapporo
Factory a large indoor shopping complex at N2 E4.
Don't be a Tourist
Residents need to get the buzz (Apr. 2002)
by Danny Lamont
How to get the best of Hokkaido? Realize how little you know about what's
going on.
As a foreigner in Japan, information doesn't find you: You have to find
it. Hokkaido, has lots happening - loads of great deals and things to
do, fantastic and unusual events and festivals. But unless you're proactive
in finding out about them, you may well not hear about them until it's
too late. You know when you tell people about something good you've done
or been to, they often say, "Wish I'd heard about that" I would
love to have gone "How did you find out about it?" People often
say it to me, and I've said the same thing too many times myself.
But once you understand the ways that foreigners miss out, you can help
make sure that you don't. If you think that most of Hokkaido's festivals
are listed in your guidebook, you're mistaken. Your guidebook barely scratches
the surface. For all sorts of events, the tourist information centre under
Sapporo International Communication Plaza (Plaza i, MN Building, 1F, North
1 West 3) and that at JR Sapporo Station (North Exit) are the best sources
of information. They have a free guide (in Japanese, though) to all the
festivals in Hokkaido. There are hundreds more than the ones you usually
hear about.
Not fully understanding information in the media means that loads of stuff
goes over your head unnoticed. Take Hot Pepper for example, a free paper
targeted to Japanese women office workers and available at several convenience
store chains. Most foreigners new to Sapporo either don't know it exists,
or can't read it. But if you like cheap all-you-can-eat and -drink deals,
it's a must. Get a friend who can read Japanese to point out the best
deals in it for you, and you'll be able to start regretting how much you
drank the night before, instead of how much you spent.
The other day, I heard about a shop in the Tanuki Koji shopping arcade
that sells cheap phone cards. I headed down there and found that you can
buy ´500 phone cards for only ´400 there, as well as discounted subway
and rail tickets. Was I delighted at my discovery? No. I couldn't help
thinking about all the pocketfuls of full-price phone cards I've used
in the last two years!
Oh well, I guess if I'd taken the initiative to explore Tanuki Koji or
to ask someone earlier, I might have found out sooner. A famous English
football team manager put it best when asked about a lucky win. He said,
"You make your own luck." This is never truer than in Japan.
I've often found that checking the message board at the International
Plaza or striking up a conversation with someone I didn't know has led
to something special. I've taken part in snowball-fight tournaments and
free sakˇ tastings, been to rock and dance music festivals, and found accommodation,
English teaching jobs and movie extra work these ways.
There's a lot of information out there sitting in people's heads or on
pieces of paper. Seek and ye shall find! And the next time you find out
something good, you'll be able to use a discount phone card to tell someone.
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